Onward
Ask “what type of roof do I have?” and you will get two different answers, because there are two different questions hiding inside it. One is about the material sitting on top, the asphalt, metal, tile, or rubber that keeps the rain out. The other is about the shape underneath, the gable, hip, or flat form that gives your house its silhouette. This guide covers both, in plain English, so you can tell them apart and pick the right roof for your home, your climate, and your budget.
Quick answer: “Types of roofs” means two things: roofing materials and roof shapes. The main materials are asphalt shingles, metal, clay or concrete tile, slate, wood shake, synthetic composite, and flat-roof membranes (TPO, EPDM, PVC). The main shapes are gable, hip, gambrel, mansard, flat, shed, dutch, and butterfly. Most US homes pair asphalt shingles with a gable or hip shape.
Material vs. shape: the two ways to talk about a roof
Before you shop for a roof, get clear on which question you are answering. The material is the visible covering, the part you replace when you “get a new roof.” The shape is the structural form built from your rafters and trusses, and it usually stays the same for the life of the house.
Here is why it matters. When a roofer says you need a “new roof,” they almost always mean new material, the shingles or panels, not a rebuilt frame. The shape only changes if you do a major addition or remodel. So when you compare quotes, you are comparing material and labor on the shape you already have.
The two also influence each other. A steep gable can wear nearly any material. A flat roof can only take a membrane, because shingles would let water seep under the overlaps. Some heavy materials, like slate and tile, need a structure built to hold the weight. According to This Old House, the best material depends on your budget, your home’s style, and your local climate, and the shape sets the rules for what is even possible.
Key takeaway: Material is what you replace; shape is what you build. Most homeowners are choosing a material to go on a shape they already have.
Roofing materials, ranked by what they cost and how long they last
There are seven material families worth knowing. Each has a look, a lifespan, a cost tier, and a climate it loves. The single biggest pattern is simple: cheaper materials last less time, pricier materials last longer, and the “best value” depends on how long you plan to own the home.
Below is the at-a-glance comparison. Treat the dollar figures as 2026 US ranges for installed cost per square foot (a “square” in roofing is 100 square feet). Real prices swing with your region, roof pitch, and how complex the job is, so always confirm with a written quote.
| Material | Typical lifespan | Cost tier (installed) | Best climate / fit |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3-tab asphalt shingle | 15–25 years | $ ($4.50–$7/sq ft) | Mild, budget builds, rentals |
| Architectural asphalt shingle | 25–30 years | $ ($5.50–$9/sq ft) | Most US homes, all-around |
| Metal (standing seam) | 40–70 years | $$$ ($10–$18/sq ft) | Snow, heat, wildfire, modern look |
| Metal shingles/shakes | 40–60 years | $$ ($9–$15/sq ft) | Homes wanting metal that looks traditional |
| Clay / concrete tile | 50–100 years | $$$ ($10–$22/sq ft) | Hot, dry, coastal, Spanish/Mediterranean style |
| Natural slate | 75–150+ years | $$$$ ($15–$30+/sq ft) | Forever homes, historic, cold and wet |
| Wood shake/shingle | 20–40 years | $$ ($8–$15/sq ft) | Dry climates, rustic and cottage homes |
| Synthetic composite | 40–50+ years | $$ ($9–$16/sq ft) | Anywhere wanting slate/shake looks, less weight |
Sources for these ranges include HGTV, Consumer Reports, and Angi. We break the math down further in our roofing cost guide and explain our pricing method in our cost methodology.
Asphalt shingles: the default for a reason
Asphalt shingles cover roughly 80 percent of US homes, and they earn that spot. They are made from a fiberglass mat coated in waterproof asphalt and topped with mineral granules. They come in two flavors: cheaper, flat 3-tab shingles, and thicker architectural (or “dimensional”) shingles that mimic the depth of wood or slate.
The pros are price, choice, and easy repairs. Most asphalt shingles carry wind ratings up to 110 to 130 mph and handle sun, freezes, and small hail. The cons are a shorter life than premium materials and faster wear in harsh, icy conditions. For the full breakdown of grades and brands, see our guide to types of shingles.
- Look: Familiar, comes in dozens of colors and profiles
- Lifespan: 15–30 years depending on grade
- Cost tier: $ (most affordable common material)
- Best for: Almost any home, especially if you may move within 10–15 years
Metal: long life, snow shedding, and a modern edge
Metal roofing has surged in the last decade. Standing seam panels give a clean, contemporary look with hidden fasteners, while metal shingles and shakes copy the look of wood or slate with far more longevity. Steel and aluminum last 40 to 70 years; copper and zinc can pass 100.
Metal sheds snow, resists fire, and reflects heat, which is why it suits both snowy and hot regions. The catch is upfront cost and a need for skilled installation. Dive deeper on our metal roofing page.
Clay and concrete tile: built for heat
Clay and concrete tiles are durable, fire-resistant, and slow to absorb heat, which makes them a favorite in hot, dry, and coastal areas and on Spanish or Mediterranean homes. Clay tile can last 50 to 100 years. The trade-off is weight; tile is heavy, so your home’s structure must be built or reinforced to carry it.
Slate: the century roof
Natural slate is the longest-lasting roof you can buy, often 75 to 150 years and sometimes more. It is real stone, fireproof, and stunning, which is why you see it on historic homes. It is also the most expensive and the heaviest, so it makes sense mainly for forever homes with a structure that can hold it.
Wood shake, synthetic composite, and which one to pick
Wood shakes give a rustic, natural look and last 20 to 40 years with upkeep, but a growing number of insurers now limit or drop coverage on cedar shake because of fire risk. Synthetic composite shingles solve that: they replicate slate or shake using polymers, last 40 to 50-plus years, resist rot, insects, and fire, and weigh about the same as asphalt, so they need no extra structure. If you love the cedar or slate look without the downsides, composite is usually the smarter modern pick.
Flat and low-slope roofs need a membrane, not shingles
Flat and low-slope roofs (anything under about a 2-in-12 pitch) cannot use shingles, because water sits instead of running off and would seep under the overlaps. Instead they use a continuous membrane that seals the whole surface. You will find these on modern homes, additions, porches, and most commercial buildings.
There are four main systems, and they are easy to mix up. Here is how they compare.
| Membrane | What it is | Lifespan | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| TPO | White, reflective single-ply plastic | 15–25 years | Most-installed commercial membrane; energy-saving |
| EPDM | Black rubber single-ply | 25–30+ years | Budget-friendly, very durable, absorbs heat |
| PVC | White, welded single-ply plastic | 20–30 years | Strongest and most chemical-resistant; priciest |
| Built-up (BUR) | Layers of tar and gravel | 15–30 years | The classic “tar and gravel” roof; heavy |
Installed costs for single-ply membranes generally run about $4 to $12 per square foot as of 2026. The big choice is color: white TPO and PVC reflect sun and cut cooling bills, while black EPDM is cheaper and forgiving but absorbs heat. If your home has a flat section, ask a pro which membrane fits your climate and budget. A small leak on a flat roof spreads fast, so good gutters and drainage matter even more here.
Key takeaway: If your roof is flat or barely sloped, you are choosing a membrane (TPO, EPDM, PVC, or built-up), not a shingle. White membranes save on cooling; black EPDM saves up front.
Roof shapes: the form under the material
Roof shape is the form built from your rafters and trusses. It decides your attic space, how water and snow run off, how the house handles wind, and how much the roof costs to build. Here are the eight shapes you will hear named most.
Gable: the simple triangle
A gable roof has two sloped sides meeting at a ridge, leaving a triangular wall at each end. It is the most common shape in the US. Gables shed water and snow well, give generous attic space, and are cheap to build. The weakness is high wind: those flat triangular ends can catch gusts, and a big overhang can lift in a storm.
Hip: four slopes, more strength
A hip roof slopes on all four sides with no flat vertical ends. That makes it sturdier in high winds and hurricanes, because there is less flat surface for wind to push against. The cost is more complex framing and a higher price than a gable. Hips are a popular choice in storm-prone and coastal regions.
Gambrel: the barn roof
A gambrel has two different slopes on each of two sides, a shallow upper slope and a steep lower one, the classic barn or Dutch Colonial look. It creates a lot of usable space for a loft or attic with simple framing. The downside is that it is not ideal for heavy wind or snow loads, where the broad lower slope can be stressed.
Mansard: the French four-sided
A mansard, or French roof, is like a gambrel on all four sides: a steep lower slope and a low upper slope all the way around. It creates a full top-floor living space (a “garret”). The trade-off is real: it is complex, expensive, and needs skilled craftsmanship, and the flatter top can pool water.
Flat, shed, dutch, and butterfly
- Flat / low-slope: Looks flat but has a slight pitch for drainage. Common on modern homes and additions. Cheap to frame, but needs a membrane and careful drainage.
- Shed (skillion): A single slope, like half a gable. Simple, cheap, and modern. Great for additions, porches, and contemporary homes.
- Dutch: A gable with a small hip on top (a “dutch gable”). Blends the attic space of a gable with some of the strength and style of a hip. More complex and pricier.
- Butterfly: A V-shape, two surfaces angled up at the edges and down to a center valley, like wings. Striking and good for big windows and rainwater capture, but the center valley needs serious drainage and upkeep.
For more on how slope is measured and why it changes everything, see our guide to roof pitch explained. The shape also drives how a job is priced, which we cover in how much does a roof cost. Good background on shapes comes from IKO and Nationwide.
Key takeaway: Simple shapes (gable, shed) are cheapest. Four-sided shapes (hip, mansard, dutch) cost more but handle wind better or add living space. More valleys mean more places to leak.
How to choose: budget, climate, home style, and how long you’ll stay
The right roof is the one that fits four things at once. Work through them in order and the choice usually narrows itself.
- Set your budget honestly. Include the material, the tear-off, and any structural work. Asphalt is cheapest; slate and tile are the most expensive. Remember the long game: a slate roof that lasts 100 years can be cheaper per year than replacing asphalt three times.
- Respect your climate. Snow and ice reward metal and steep slopes. Hot, sunny regions favor tile, metal, and light “cool roof” shingles. High-wind and hurricane zones lean toward hip shapes and heavier, well-fastened materials. Wildfire areas want fire-resistant metal, tile, or composite, not wood shake.
- Match your home’s style. A craftsman bungalow, a Spanish villa, and a modern box each call for different looks. Tile suits Mediterranean homes; standing-seam metal suits modern and farmhouse; architectural shingles suit almost everything.
- Factor in how long you’ll stay. Moving in a few years? Quality architectural shingles give the best return. Staying for decades? Metal, composite, tile, or slate can pay off and may even raise resale value.
Here is a quick decision guide that ties it together.
| Your priority | Strong material picks | Strong shape picks |
|---|---|---|
| Lowest upfront cost | Architectural asphalt shingle | Gable or shed |
| Longest life, low upkeep | Metal, synthetic composite | Hip or gable |
| Hot, sunny climate | Clay/concrete tile, metal | Any with good ventilation |
| High wind / hurricanes | Concrete tile, fastened metal | Hip |
| Forever home / resale | Slate, metal, tile | Hip or dutch |
If you are weighing whether to replace at all, our guides on how long a roof lasts and signs you need a new roof will help you time it right.
Common mistakes homeowners make picking a roof type
The wrong roof choice is expensive and hard to undo, so it helps to know where people slip up. The Onward network sees the same handful of mistakes over and over.
- Choosing on price alone. The cheapest shingle today can cost more across two replacements than one mid-tier roof. Think in cost per year, not just sticker price.
- Ignoring weight. Slate and tile are heavy. Putting them on a structure built for asphalt without reinforcement is a real safety and code problem.
- Forcing shingles onto a flat roof. Low-slope sections need a membrane. Shingles there will leak, period.
- Picking wood shake in a fire or insurance-tight area. Insurers increasingly limit cedar shake. Confirm coverage before you commit.
- Skipping ventilation and underlayment. The layers you cannot see decide how long the layer you can see survives. See our underlayment guide.
- Hiring the first storm-chaser who knocks. After a storm, door-knockers push fast deals and big deposits. Slow down, get it in writing, and use a vetted pro.
Key takeaway: Most regret comes from buying on price, ignoring weight or climate, or rushing the contractor choice. A free inspection from a vetted roofer prevents nearly all of it.
How Onward helps you pick and install the right roof
Choosing a roof type is the easy part. Finding an honest pro to install it for a fair price is where most of the fear lives, and that is the part Onward fixes. Tell us your ZIP and what you need, and we match you with a few vetted local roofers, not a pile of cold-callers. It is free, takes about 60 seconds, and we never sell your info.
Every pro in the network passes The Onward Shield, our 6-point vetting: (1) state license verified, (2) liability and workers’ comp insurance verified, (3) background and track-record check, (4) a written workmanship warranty required, (5) real reviews from finished jobs plus BBB, and (6) re-checked every year. Nearly 1 in 3 roofers who apply do not get in. You can read exactly how we verify roofers.
A matched pro can give you a free roof inspection, walk you through materials and shapes for your home and climate, and hand you a fair, written quote, whether you need a full roof replacement, a metal upgrade, or new shingle roofing. Compare the quotes side by side, then pick. Want to see who serves your area first? Browse local roofers or learn how it works.
The bottom line
There are two kinds of “types of roofs”: the material on top and the shape underneath. Pick the material by weighing budget, climate, home style, and how long you’ll stay, and remember that cheaper usually means a shorter life. The shape you mostly already have, and it sets the rules for what materials fit and how the roof handles weather.
When you are ready to put a real number and a real pro behind your choice, get a free quote and we will match you with a few vetted local roofers who can inspect your roof, explain your best options, and compete for your business in writing. No spam, no pressure, no sold-off info.
