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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523A correct residential slab job follows a fixed order: remove topsoil and soft spots and compact the fill, slope for drainage, set and brace forms, place a moderate-slump mix, screed and bull float promptly, wait for bleed water to leave before further finishing, cut joints on time, and cure for 3 to 7 days. Getting the order and the timing right matters more than any single product choice.
The finishing sequence is where most surface defects are created. NRMCA's rule: initial screeding must be promptly followed by bull floating, and subsequent finishing must not be performed while bleed water is on the surface or before bleeding has finished. Troweling water back into the surface makes a weak layer that scales later. For exterior slabs, a broom finish is what you want — better traction and less over-finishing than a steel trowel.
Joint timing is a clock, not a preference. NRMCA: conventional saw-cut joints should be run within 4 to 12 hours after the concrete has been finished; early-entry dry-cut joints generally 1 to 4 hours after finishing. Cut too early and the edges ravel; cut too late and the slab cracks on its own first. Joints need a groove depth of at least 1/4 the slab thickness and no less than 1 inch.
Isolation joints are the other half of the plan and get skipped constantly. They separate the slab from walls, footings, columns, steps, and adjoining slabs, so the two can move independently. NRMCA specifically calls for isolation joints at junctions of driveways with walks, curbs, or other obstructions.
Then curing. Start immediately after finishing, continue 3 to 7 days, and use either water methods (fogging, ponding, wet burlap kept continuously moist) or retention methods (plastic sheeting at least 4 mils conforming to ASTM C171, or liquid membrane curing compound conforming to ASTM C309 or C1315). NRMCA warns that alternate wetting and drying is not an acceptable curing practice.
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