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A door project runs in four stages: measure and confirm handing, choose material and configuration, get itemized quotes on identical scope, and inspect the finished install against a short checklist. Most homeowner regret comes from stages one and three — a wrong measurement or a quote that hid the trim work.

Measuring. For a slab replacement, measure the existing door itself — width, height and thickness — at more than one point, because old openings are rarely square. For a prehung unit you need the rough opening, which is the framed hole behind the trim. If those two numbers disagree with what a supplier expects, stop and get the installer to measure. A mismeasured door is a restocking fee at best.

Handing. Doors are left-hand or right-hand, inswing or outswing. The convention varies by supplier, so describe it plainly in writing too: "stand outside facing the door; hinges on the left; door swings into the house." That sentence prevents a very common and very annoying error.

What a good install looks like. The opening is checked for rot and squareness, a sill pan or flashing goes in before the unit, the unit is shimmed plumb and level and screwed through the hinge jamb into framing, the shim gap is insulated (low-expansion foam or backer rod, not packed fiberglass everywhere), and the exterior is sealed and flashed so water is directed out, not into the wall.

Inspect before final payment. Even gaps all round, the door stays put when opened halfway, the latch engages without lifting the handle, weatherstrip contacts all the way around, and no daylight visible around the closed door. Check these with the installer still on site.

How to choose

Let the installer take the final measurements
If they measure, an error is theirs. If you measure and supply the door, it is yours. That alone is worth more than the small measuring convenience.
Put handing in words as well as codes
Write the swing direction and hinge side as a plain sentence in the contract. Handing conventions differ between suppliers.
Ask how the opening will be flashed
A sill pan and proper flashing are what keep the sill from rotting. A bidder who can't describe their method should not get the job.
Hold back final payment until you inspect
Walk the checklist — even gaps, no daylight, clean latch engagement, full weatherstrip contact — while the crew is still there.
Get the door and hardware model numbers in writing
You will need them for warranty claims and for matching hardware later. Ask for them on the invoice.
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What Makes a Door Secure

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Door Installation Process

FAQ

Doors guides — common questions

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For a slab, measure the existing door's width, height and thickness at several points. For a prehung unit, measure the rough opening behind the trim. If the numbers are inconsistent, have the installer measure — old openings are rarely square.
Which side the hinges are on and which way the door swings. Conventions differ between suppliers, so also state it in plain words in your contract: hinge side, and whether it swings in or out as seen from outside.
Even gaps all the way around, no daylight when closed, the latch engages without lifting the door, weatherstripping touches everywhere, and the door stays where you leave it when opened halfway.
You can, but do it on the manufacturer's schedule — many finishes need to be applied within a set window after installation to keep the warranty valid. Ask for the written finishing requirements before the crew leaves.
Sources

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