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Electrical comparisons

The electrical comparisons that matter financially are narrow: subpanel versus service upgrade, targeted repair versus panel replacement, remediating older wiring versus a full rewire, and 100-amp versus 200-amp service. In each case the honest answer depends on a load calculation and an inspection of what you actually have, not on a rule of thumb.

Subpanel vs. service upgrade. If you are out of breaker slots but your service amperage is adequate, a subpanel at $400–$1,750 solves it, per This Old House. If the service itself cannot carry the load, a subpanel just moves the problem. The deciding document is a load calculation.

Repair vs. replace the panel. A single failed breaker is a $50–$100 part swap, per Inch Calculator. Full replacement makes sense when the panel is at capacity, is a model with documented failures, shows heat or corrosion damage, or parts are unobtainable. 'It's old' by itself is not a reason.

Remediate vs. rewire. With aluminum branch wiring, connection-level remediation at roughly $50–$75 per outlet is a very different number from a $12,000–$36,600 whole-house rewire, per HomeGuide. With knob-and-tube, rewiring is usually the realistic path, partly because many insurers treat it as a coverage issue.

100A vs. 200A. If you are already upgrading, the marginal cost of going to 200A is often modest relative to doing the job twice. This Old House puts 100-amp panel-plus-install at $800–$1,500 and 200-amp at $1,300–$3,000. Decide against your future loads — EV, heat pump, induction range, ADU — not just today's.

How to choose

Make the load calculation the tiebreaker
Every comparison here resolves to the same document. Ask for it. A contractor unwilling to produce one is guessing.
Price the do-it-twice scenario
Ask each bidder what it would cost to come back and upsize later. That number usually makes the right choice obvious.
Get repair and replace priced by the same contractor
If a contractor will only quote the replacement, ask them to also quote the repair and explain in writing why it is insufficient.
Factor insurance into the comparison
Some conditions — knob-and-tube in particular — affect insurability. Call your carrier before you choose, because it can flip the math.
Do not compare on price alone
Confirm all bids include the same scope: permit, inspection, service-entrance work, and wall repair. Otherwise you are comparing different jobs.
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All electrical comparisons

Panel Upgrade vs Full Rewire

AFCI vs GFCI

Copper vs Aluminum Wiring

Fuse Box vs Breaker Panel

DIY Electrical vs Licensed Electrician

200 Amp vs 100 Amp Service

Smart Panel vs Traditional Panel

FAQ

Electrical comparisons — common questions

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It can be for a smaller home with gas heating, cooking and water heating and no EV. It generally is not once you add electric heating, an EV charger and electric cooking. The only real answer is a service load calculation performed for your specific house and planned additions.
Rarely needed for a typical single-family home. This Old House puts 400-amp upgrades at $2,000–$4,000 and new 400-amp installs at $4,000–$6,000. It is worth considering for large homes, an ADU, workshop loads or multiple EVs — again, decided by load calculation.
Usually much cheaper, because the walls are already open. HomeGuide puts drywall and plaster repair after rewiring at $1,000–$5,000, and that is the cost you avoid. If a gut renovation is on your horizon, sequencing the electrical work into it is the single biggest saving available.
Get a licensed electrician to inspect it and give a written finding on the specific panel in your house. Also call your insurer, because insurability is often the practical driver of this decision, separate from the technical argument.
Sources

Where these figures come from

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