Garage door problems

Door won't close, and the opener light blinks. This is usually the photo eyes. Since UL 325's third edition took effect for residential openers manufactured on or after January 1, 1993, openers use entrapment protection — the sensors mounted low on each side of the opening. If the beam is broken, dirty, or the brackets have been knocked out of alignment, the door refuses to close. Clean the lenses, clear the path, and check that both indicator lights are steady.

A bang, then a heavy door. A snapped spring. The door may still lift with the opener straining, or not at all. Do not force it, do not park under it, and do not attempt the repair. Springs are the highest-energy component in the system.

Door is crooked or came off the track. Often a broken lift cable, a jammed roller, or damage from being struck. A door off its track is unstable — leave it alone and get a technician out.

Door reverses immediately after touching the floor. Usually a travel-limit or force setting on the opener, sometimes an obstruction on the floor or a worn bottom seal.

Grinding, squealing, or shuddering. Typically dry or worn rollers, loose hardware, or bent track. Lubrication and tightening fix a surprising share of these, which is why an annual tune-up is worth booking.

How to choose

Broken spring: stop using the door

Without the counterbalance, the door's full weight is on the opener and the cables. Disconnect the opener and call a professional.

Check the photo eyes before calling anyone

Dirty lenses, a bag leaning into the beam, or a bumped bracket cause a large share of 'won't close' calls.

Off-track doors are not a DIY fix

The door can fall or bind. Keep people and cars clear and get a technician.

Do not disable the safety sensors

Bypassing entrapment protection removes the feature that exists because children and pets were being crushed. Fix the sensor instead.

Note what changed

Weather, a recent bump, a power outage, or a new setting all narrow the diagnosis and shorten the service call.