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Backup generator decision guides

Decide with two numbers: how long your power actually goes out, and how many watts you truly need. In 2024 the average U.S. customer experienced about 663 minutes without power across roughly 1.5 interruptions, but only about 132 minutes once major storm days are excluded — so the case for a standby generator is really a case about storms. Size it as total running watts plus the single largest starting surge.

Start with the outage data, not the sales pitch. EIA's 2024 reliability figures show the average customer losing about 663 minutes of power across roughly 1.5 non-momentary interruptions when major events are included, versus about 132 minutes when they're excluded. Translation: for most people the generator is insurance against a handful of bad storm days, not everyday inconvenience. If your state is one of the hard-hit ones, that calculus changes fast.

Then do the load math. The formula is simple: total running watts + the highest single starting wattage. If you're running 3,000 watts of stuff and your biggest motor needs a 1,500-watt surge, you need at least 4,500 watts. Aim to stay at or below about 90 percent of the generator's rated capacity so it isn't running flat out.

For reference points, Bob Vila's sizing chart puts 7,500 watts at a one-bedroom home's basics, 10,000 watts at two bedrooms including a water heater, 18,000 watts at a five-bedroom with office and garage, and 25,000 watts at full coverage of a larger home. Common running loads: fridge 600–800 W, sump pump 1,500 W, water heater 3,000–4,500 W, electric furnace 5,000–25,000 W.

There is a legitimate case for buying no generator at all. If outages are short and you have no well, no sump pump and no medical equipment, a battery power station and a good plan for the fridge may cover you for a fraction of a $5,090 install.

How to choose

Write down what must stay on
Well pump, sump pump, furnace blower, fridge, medical devices, internet. Everything else is negotiable, and negotiating it is how you avoid a 26 kW quote.
Add starting watts only once
You add the largest single surge, not every appliance's surge. Salespeople who add them all end up quoting you a much bigger unit.
Leave headroom, but not much
Running at no more than about 90 percent of rated capacity prevents overheating and nuisance shutdowns. Two size classes of headroom is just money.
Check whether your well or sump is the real driver
No power means no water on a well and a flooding basement on a sump. Those two loads justify backup power more often than air conditioning does.
Look up your own state's outage record
National averages hide enormous variation between states. Your utility's reliability history is the number that should drive the decision.
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Add the running watts of everything you want powered, then add the single largest starting surge. As rough anchors, 7,500 watts covers a one-bedroom's basics, 10,000 watts covers two bedrooms with a water heater, and 25,000 watts covers a large home fully.
It depends on your outage exposure. Nationally the average customer lost about 11 hours of power in 2024 including major events, but only about two hours excluding them. If you're in a storm-prone area with a well or a sump pump, the case is strong. If not, a portable or a battery usually wins.
Roughly 2,000–4,000 running watts, and starting surge can be about three times running — one worked example puts a 3,000-watt AC at around 12,000 watts of total demand at startup.
A little headroom is good; two size classes is expensive. Going from 14–18 kW ($4,000–$5,500) to 26–32 kW ($6,500–$15,000) can double your unit cost for capacity you never use.
Sources

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