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Insulation glossary

Plain-English definitions of 0 insulation terms you will see on quotes and inspection reports.

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R-value is thermal resistance. It is quoted per inch for loose materials and as a total for a finished layer. Fiberglass runs about 2.5-3.5 per inch, cellulose about 3.2-3.7, mineral wool about 3.0-3.7, open-cell spray foam about 3.8, and closed-cell about 7, per Fixr. Multiply per-inch value by depth to get the total. U-value (or U-factor) is roughly 1 divided by R and describes the whole assembly, which is why windows are rated in U and insulation in R.

Thermal bridging is heat taking a shortcut through a conductive element - a wood stud, a steel beam, a concrete slab edge - that bypasses the insulation around it. It is why a wall with R-13 batts does not perform like a solid R-13 wall, and why continuous exterior sheathing insulation is valuable.

Air barrier is the continuous layer that stops air moving through the building envelope. It is a different job from insulation, which is why sealing and insulating are two tasks. Vapor retarder slows water vapor diffusing through an assembly. Which side of the wall it belongs on, or whether you should have one at all, depends on your climate - getting this backwards traps moisture inside the wall.

ACH50 is air changes per hour at 50 pascals of pressure, the number a blower-door test produces. It quantifies how leaky a house is. It is the single most useful diagnostic figure in this industry because it turns "the house feels drafty" into something measurable before and after the work.

Before you sign

Three rules for every term

  • Ask for total R-value, not material R-value Per-inch figures only become meaningful once you know the installed depth. The contract should state both.
  • Ask about thermal bridging in wall quotes Cavity insulation alone leaves the studs as a heat path. A contractor who raises this unprompted is worth listening to.
  • Confirm the vapor retarder strategy Climate determines which side it goes on, or whether you need one. This is the detail most likely to cause hidden moisture damage.
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Better thermally, but with diminishing returns and no benefit if air is still leaking through gaps. Hit the recommended level for your climate zone - R30 to R60 for attics depending on zone, per ENERGY STAR - and spend the rest of the budget on air sealing.
R measures resistance to heat flow and higher is better. U measures heat transmission through a whole assembly and lower is better. They are roughly reciprocal.
There is no single right answer - targets depend on climate, code and whether the house has mechanical ventilation. The important use is the before-and-after comparison on your own house, which shows what the air sealing actually achieved.
It depends on your climate and the assembly. Getting this wrong can trap moisture in a wall. Ask the contractor to explain how the assembly dries and in which direction - if they cannot, get another opinion.
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Reviewed by

Michael Thompson

Senior Home Improvement Reviewer · 20 years

Senior technical reviewer.

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