Irrigation · Decision Guides

Irrigation decision guides

Tune first, repair second, replace last. Buried pipe is the expensive part and it rarely fails on its own — heads, nozzles, valves, wiring and controllers are all cheap and replaceable. Full replacement is justified when the original zone layout is wrong: mixed head types in a zone, turf and beds sharing a valve, or too few zones for your water supply. Before installing a system at all, be honest about whether your landscape needs one — WaterSense's guidance favors regionally appropriate plants that need little supplemental water once established.

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The question nobody in the industry will ask you: do you want the lawn? Homes with clock-timer irrigation use around 50 percent more water outdoors than homes without irrigation, according to EPA WaterSense. If your goal is a low-maintenance, low-cost yard, planting for your region and mulching well may serve you better than any system.

If you do have a system, upgrading it beats replacing it in most cases. The upgrade path in rough order of value: fix broken and misaligned heads, convert beds to drip, add pressure regulation, install a WaterSense labeled controller with a sensor, then re-zone only if the layout is genuinely wrong.

Cost gives the decision shape. LatestCost puts a new system at roughly $200 to $700 per zone with a five-zone suburban install commonly $2,000 to $3,500. Against that, an audit and a controller are small numbers, and EPA estimates the controller alone can save an average home up to 15,000 gallons a year.

Be skeptical of a first visit that recommends full replacement without running the zones. If the diagnosis didn't involve watching the system operate, it isn't a diagnosis. Get a second opinion — ideally from someone in EPA's directory of WaterSense certified professionals.

How to choose

Watch the system run before deciding anything: A contractor who quotes replacement without operating each zone has not diagnosed your system.
Follow the upgrade ladder: Heads, then drip in beds, then pressure regulation, then a smart controller. Re-zoning last.
Re-zone only for design faults: Mixed head types, or turf and shrubs on one valve, are the faults that justify real money.
Consider the low-water option honestly: Regionally appropriate plants and 3 to 4 inches of mulch reduce the need for irrigation in the first place.
Get a second opinion from a certified pro: EPA's WaterSense directory is searchable by ZIP code and certification type.

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FAQ

Irrigation decision guides — common questions

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Should I repair or replace my sprinkler system?

Repair or tune unless the zone layout itself is wrong. Heads, valves, wiring and controllers are inexpensive; buried pipe is the costly part and usually still fine.

Do I even need an irrigation system?

Not necessarily. EPA WaterSense notes homes with clock-timer systems use about 50 percent more water outdoors than homes without irrigation, and its landscaping guidance favors regionally appropriate plants that need little water once established.

What's the best upgrade for the money?

Usually a WaterSense labeled controller plus fixing broken heads. EPA estimates up to 15,000 gallons a year saved by moving off a clock timer, and a single broken head can waste up to 25,000 gallons and $280 in a six-month season.

How much would a new system cost?

LatestCost puts installation at roughly $200–$700 per zone, with a five-zone suburban system commonly $2,000–$3,500.

Sources

Where these figures come from

EPA WaterSense — Sprinkler Spruce-Up · retrieved 2026-07-26
EPA WaterSense — Irrigation Controllers · retrieved 2026-07-26
EPA WaterSense — Landscaping Tips · retrieved 2026-07-26
EPA WaterSense — Find a Certified Professional · retrieved 2026-07-26
LatestCost — Sprinkler System Cost Per Zone (2026) · retrieved 2026-07-26