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Plumbing equipment

The main pieces of plumbing equipment in a house are the water heater, the main shutoff and fixture valves, the pressure regulator, an expansion tank on closed systems, and — depending on the home — a sump pump, sewage ejector, or well pump. Tank water heaters typically last 8–12 years and cost $900–$5,500 installed; tankless units typically last 15–20 years and run $1,500–$4,500 installed.

Water heaters dominate this category. A conventional tank is the cheapest to install and the shortest-lived. Tankless costs more up front, lasts longer, and requires descaling maintenance — especially in hard water, where scale is the primary cause of premature failure. If you're staying in the home long enough for the longer life to pay back, tankless makes sense; if you're selling in three years, it usually doesn't.

The unglamorous equipment matters more than people expect. A failing pressure regulator quietly raises house pressure, which shortens the life of every fixture, hose, and appliance valve in the building. A missing or waterlogged expansion tank on a closed system causes the water heater's relief valve to weep. Both are cheap parts that prevent expensive ones from failing early.

Sump pumps and sewage ejectors are single points of failure. If your basement depends on one, it should have a tested backup — battery or water-powered — and you should test the primary before every wet season by pouring a bucket into the pit and confirming the float triggers.

For anything with an electrical or gas connection, the install quality matters more than the brand. A correctly sized, correctly vented, correctly strapped water heater from a mid-tier brand will outlast a premium unit installed badly. Judge the installer at least as hard as you judge the equipment.

How to choose

Match tankless to how long you'll own the home
The higher install cost is recovered over years through longer life and lower standby losses. If you're moving soon, the payback goes to the next owner.
Ask whether the quote includes an expansion tank and pan
On a closed system these are often code-required and are a classic line item that separates a real quote from a lowball one.
Check house pressure with a $12 gauge
Screw a pressure gauge onto a hose bib. Excessive static pressure destroys fixtures and appliance valves slowly. It's the cheapest diagnostic in plumbing.
Give sump pumps a backup
Power fails during exactly the storms that flood basements. A primary pump with no backup is a basement with no protection during an outage.
Record model and serial at install
Photograph the data plate. You'll need it for warranty registration, parts, and any future recall check.
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All plumbing equipment

Tank Water Heater

Tankless Water Heater

Sump Pump

Water Softener

Water Filtration System

PRV

Main Shutoff Valve

FAQ

Plumbing equipment — common questions

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Tank units average about 8–12 years; tankless units generally last 15–20 years with routine flushing and descaling. Hard water shortens both.
It depends on how long you'll own the home and your water hardness. Tankless typically costs $1,500–$4,500 installed versus $900–$1,900 for a comparable tank, and lasts substantially longer — but it needs regular descaling, and skipping that erases the advantage.
It absorbs the pressure increase when water heats and expands in a closed plumbing system. Whether one is required depends on your local code and whether your system has a backflow preventer or check valve — ask your plumber to show you which applies to your house.
Pour water into the pit until the float rises. The pump should start, move the water, and shut off cleanly. Do this before every rainy season, not during.
Sources

Where these figures come from

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