Siding guides

Start with measurement, because it sets your budget. Measure wall area, not floor area: multiply each wall's height by width, add gables, and subtract large openings. Contractors quote in squares of 100 square feet. At roughly $6 to $20 per square foot installed depending on material, per This Old House, you can size the job before anyone visits.

Then decide the scope. Tear-off costs more (about $1,000 to $2,500 on a vinyl job, per Fixr) but it is the only way to see and fix the sheathing, water-resistive barrier, and flashing. If your reason for re-siding is a leak, tear-off is not optional.

Vetting is the part homeowners skip. Ask for the license number where your state requires one, a current certificate of insurance sent directly from the insurer, references from jobs completed two-plus years ago (not last month), and the EPA lead-safe firm certification if the house predates 1978. Skipping this is how people end up paying twice.

How to choose

Measure before you call

Wall area in squares. Knowing your own number stops you from being talked into a much larger measured area.

Write the scope yourself

One page: tear-off, barrier, flashing, trim, product and profile, rot allowance rate, permit responsibility, cleanup. Hand the same page to every bidder.

Verify insurance directly

Ask the insurer to send the certificate to you. A PDF forwarded by the contractor proves nothing about current coverage.

Check old references, not new ones

Anyone can look good a week after the job. Ask for customers from two or three years ago and ask them specifically about leaks and callbacks.

Pay on milestones

Avoid large upfront deposits. Tie payments to defined stages and hold a final amount until punch list items are done.

Pre-1978 house

Confirm EPA lead-safe firm certification before any painted surface is disturbed. This is a federal requirement for paid work, not a nicety.