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Age drives the repair-or-replace call: HomeGuide reports quality softeners lasting 15–20 years with proper maintenance, so a large repair on a unit past 12 years rarely pays. DIY is reasonable for under-sink point-of-use filters, where professional installation is only $170–$580 anyway; whole-house work involving a drain line, a bypass or a dedicated $250–$900 electrical circuit belongs with a licensed plumber.

Repair or replace. Compare the repair against the installed cost of a new unit — $1,200–$3,800 for salt-based, per HomeGuide. A control valve replacement on a five-year-old resin tank is usually worth it. The same repair on a 15-year-old unit that has been running on untested water is throwing money at a tank whose media is likely spent. Ask the technician the age of the unit and whether the resin has ever been checked, not just what's broken.

DIY or pro. Under-sink filters are genuinely homeowner-friendly, and the professional premium is small — $170–$580 for the unit and labor combined. Whole-house is a different job: you're cutting into the main, adding a bypass, running regeneration discharge to a drain, and possibly adding a circuit at $250–$900. Do that wrong and the failure mode is water damage, which your insurer may treat unkindly if the work was unpermitted and uninspected.

Budget or premium. The honest premium features are demand-initiated regeneration (NSF/ANSI 44 recognizes manual, automatic and demand-initiated types), dual-tank operation for continuous soft water at $1,700–$5,000 installed, and standard-size replaceable media. The dishonest premiums are proprietary cartridges, unverifiable "proprietary media" claims, and financing dressed as a discount.

One rule cuts through most of it: a system you cannot maintain is not a premium system. If the local dealer is the only source of consumables and service, you have bought a subscription, not an appliance. Annual maintenance already runs $100–$300+ and salt $50–$150; you do not want a lock-in on top of that.

How to choose

Use the 50% rule against a like-for-like replacement
If the repair approaches half the $1,200–$3,800 installed cost of a comparable new unit and the current one is past ten years, replace.
Retest before you replace
Water changes. Replacing a 15-year-old softener with the same specification without a fresh test repeats whatever sizing mistake was made originally.
DIY the point-of-use, hire out the point-of-entry
The cost gap on under-sink work is small; the risk gap on whole-house work is large.
Ask what happens when the unit fails
A bypass valve means a dead softener costs you soft water, not water. Confirm one is installed.
Check consumable availability before buying premium
Standard cartridges at $15–$65 from multiple suppliers beat a proprietary equivalent every time over a 15–20 year service life.
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Water Treatment decision guides — common questions

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HomeGuide reports 15–20 years for quality systems with proper maintenance, though incoming water quality, usage and maintenance discipline all move that number substantially.
Some homeowners do, but it involves cutting the main line, a bypass, a drain for regeneration discharge and sometimes a dedicated circuit costing $250–$900. Local plumbing permit rules vary — check with your building department before you start.
Sometimes. Demand-initiated regeneration and dual-tank designs ($1,700–$5,000 installed) solve real problems. Proprietary media and locked-in cartridges do not. Judge premium by certified claims and parts availability.
Test first. A working unit with a bypass and available parts is worth keeping. Replacing on the seller's word rather than a test result is how people spend $3,000 they didn't need to.
Sources

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