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Irrigation leak detection — the bill found it first

A leak on a pressurised irrigation mainline runs twenty-four hours a day and often never reaches the surface. Locating it precisely is what stops the yard being dug up in five places.

In short

What is irrigation leak detection?

Irrigation leak detection is the work of finding water escaping from buried pipe when there is no obvious break to point at. The critical distinction is whether the leak is on the mainline — the section that stays pressurised at all times, which loses water around the clock — or on a lateral downstream of a valve, which only loses water while that zone runs. A meter reading with the whole system idle answers that question in ten minutes.

Triggers

Signs you need irrigation leak detection

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The job

How irrigation leak detection actually works

  1. Meter test to split mainline from lateral

    Everything indoors is shut off and the controller is set to off. If the meter still moves, water is escaping from something permanently pressurised — the mainline, the point of connection, or a valve that is not seating. If it stops, the loss only happens while a zone runs.

    Watch for: A quote for excavation before this test has been done. It takes minutes, it is free, and it eliminates half the possible locations.

  2. Isolate section by section

    The technician closes isolation valves progressively, watching the meter after each, to narrow the loss to a length of pipe rather than a property. Where isolation valves do not exist, the mainline may be capped in stages instead.

    Watch for: A system with no isolation valves at all. This makes every future repair more expensive, and it is worth adding one or two while the ground is open.

  3. Pressure test the suspect section

    The isolated length is charged and then watched with a gauge. A section that holds pressure is clear; one that decays is where the leak is, and the rate of decay gives a rough sense of the size.

    Watch for: A test run for only a minute or two. Slow leaks — the ones that quietly cost the most over a season — need a longer hold to reveal themselves.

  4. Locate precisely, with a method appropriate to the pipe

    Pinpointing may use acoustic listening equipment, a pipe locator to trace the route first, or observation of surface signs. Plastic pipe transmits leak sound far less readily than metal, so tracing the route and correlating with soil conditions often matters more than listening alone.

    Watch for: A claim of pinpoint accuracy on plastic pipe from listening alone. Honest technicians describe a search area and narrow it; anyone promising a spot within an inch on poly is overselling the physics.

  5. Mark, excavate narrowly, repair and re-test

    The location is marked, a small opening is made rather than a trench, the fault is repaired, and the section is re-pressurised and held to confirm the loss has actually stopped.

    Watch for: No confirming re-test. Systems with one leak frequently have two — the same freeze event or the same root that caused one usually caused another nearby.

Money

What does irrigation leak detection cost?

Detection is typically billed as a diagnostic visit, with excavation and repair quoted separately once the fault is located. Cost scales with how far the search has to run and what the leak sits under. See the Cost Guide for ranges.

See the full irrigation leak detection cost guide — by material, size and region →

Straight answer

When irrigation leak detection is the wrong call

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Before you sign

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Local pros

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Related work

Often done at the same time

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FAQ

Irrigation Leak Detection — questions people ask

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Shut off the valve that isolates the irrigation system from the house supply and watch the meter. If the meter stops, the loss is on the irrigation side; if it keeps moving, it is indoors or on the house side of the plumbing. Do this before anything else — it costs nothing and it decides which trade you call.
Routinely, yes. Water follows the path of least resistance underground: along the pipe trench, into gravel, along a footing drain, or down into permeable subsoil. Sandy and well-drained soils in particular can absorb a substantial continuous leak with no visible sign at all, which is why a bill jump is often the first and only symptom.
No, and they are distinguished differently. A valve that fails to seat lets water past into a lateral, so you get a zone that weeps or a head that trickles constantly. A mainline pipe leak loses water into the ground with no zone running at all. The meter test plus a walk of the zones separates the two before anyone digs.
Less accurate than on metal water mains, and it is worth knowing that going in. Plastic pipe damps the sound a leak makes, and shallow burial in soft soil damps it further. In practice good technicians combine route tracing, section isolation and pressure decay with acoustics rather than relying on listening alone, and they describe a search area rather than promising a point.
For a mainline leak, yes — close the isolation valve and the loss stops immediately, which is worth doing the moment you suspect one rather than waiting for an appointment. For a lateral leak, simply skipping that zone stops the loss while the rest of the system keeps running. Either way, do not leave a confirmed continuous leak running through a billing cycle.

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