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Tub to shower conversion, and what is really in the alcove

Taking a tub out and putting a shower in is one of the most-sold jobs in remodelling, which is why almost everything written about it is written by someone with a product to install. What decides the price is the drain, the substrate and how much of the wall comes off.

In short

What is tub to shower conversion?

A tub to shower conversion removes a bathtub and builds a shower in the same alcove. Because the two fixtures use the space differently, the job almost always involves moving or reworking the drain, replacing the valve, and rebuilding the walls of the alcove — the tub does not simply lift out and a shower drop in. How much of that work is done, versus covered over, is the difference between a two-day job and a two-week one, and it is the question every quote should answer.

Triggers

Signs you need tub to shower conversion

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The job

How tub to shower conversion actually works

  1. Establish what happens to the drain

    A bathtub drains at one end through a waste and overflow assembly; a shower drains through a centre or linear drain in a floor built to fall toward it. Those are rarely in the same place, so most conversions involve opening the floor to move or extend the drain. Where the floor can be accessed from below it is straightforward; on a slab it means cutting concrete.

    Watch for: A quote that never mentions the drain. Either they have found a base whose outlet lines up — worth confirming — or they have not looked, and the number will change once the floor is open.

  2. Decide prefab base or tiled pan, because everything follows from it

    A one-piece acrylic or solid-surface base is fast, factory-formed to fall correctly, and has no grout. A tiled pan is built on site over a waterproofed, sloped bed and can be any size or shape, including curbless. The base decides the timeline, the price and how much of the job is craft versus assembly.

    Watch for: A tiled pan quoted at prefab prices. Building a shower floor by hand and waterproofing it properly is skilled work, and a suspiciously cheap tiled pan usually means the waterproofing is where the saving came from.

  3. Strip the alcove back and look at the walls

    The tub, its surround and the wall covering come out. In older bathrooms this is where soft or blackened substrate around the tub flange appears, along with any framing damage under the old waste. Everything found here has to be dealt with before the new shower goes in.

    Watch for: A crew willing to install straight onto whatever they find. If the reason you are converting is that water has been getting in, the substrate is the thing that must be replaced, not covered.

  4. Rework the plumbing — the valve, not just the pipe

    A tub-and-shower valve has a diverter and a tub spout outlet; a shower-only valve does not. The valve typically gets replaced and reset at shower height, and this is the moment to fit a pressure-balancing or thermostatic valve if the existing one is not one. Adding a handheld on a slide bar is far cheaper now than later.

    Watch for: The old valve reused with the tub outlet capped off inside the wall. It works, and it leaves a capped fitting buried behind new tile forever. Ask what is being left in the wall.

  5. Waterproof, then build the enclosure

    Backer board goes up, the wet area gets a continuous waterproofing layer, the base or the sloped pan is set and tested, and the wall covering — tile or panel — goes on. On a tiled installation the membrane, the corners and the drain detail are the whole job; on a panel system the joints and the base flange are.

    Watch for: Shower walls left at tub height. A shower wets the wall far higher than a bath does, and stopping the waterproofing or the tile where the old surround stopped is a defect you will discover as a stain on the other side of the wall.

  6. Glass, screen or curtain

    A fixed glass panel with an open entry is the common answer and needs no track to clean. A hinged or sliding enclosure contains water better in a small alcove. A curtain costs almost nothing and is easier to move around. Frameless glass is measured after the walls are finished, so it arrives a couple of weeks behind everything else.

    Watch for: The lead time on custom glass being left out of the schedule. It is the single most common reason a "finished" shower stays unusable for another fortnight.

  7. Make good the room around the alcove

    A tub is longer and taller than most shower bases, so removing it exposes floor and wall the tub used to hide. Floor tile may need patching, the skirting line changes, and the wall above the old surround usually needs making good and painting.

    Watch for: This work not appearing in the quote at all. It is genuinely easy to overlook at the walkthrough and it is genuinely not free.

Money

What does tub to shower conversion cost?

Tub to shower conversions commonly run between $4,000 and $15,000. A prefab base into an existing alcove with the drain reused sits at the bottom; a tiled pan, a relocated drain, and frameless glass push toward and past the top. The drain and the base type move the number more than the tile does.

See the full tub to shower conversion cost guide — by material, size and region →

Straight answer

When tub to shower conversion is the wrong call

Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.

Your options

Types of tub to shower conversion

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Before you sign

What to check when hiring for tub to shower conversion

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Local pros

Tub to Shower Conversion near you

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Related work

Often done at the same time

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FAQ

Tub to Shower Conversion — questions people ask

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It depends entirely on how many bathrooms the house has. Removing the last tub in a family home narrows your buyer pool, because some buyers with young children will not consider a house without one. In a home with two or more bathrooms, converting the one nobody bathes in is generally neutral or positive — a well-built shower reads better than a tub used as an awkward shower tray. The question is never "tub or shower" in the abstract; it is what the rest of the house still offers.
Usually, and the resulting shower is often generous, because a standard tub alcove is longer than most people build a shower. The two things to settle are the drain position and the finished floor height of the base or pan relative to the bathroom floor. Some alcove widths also mean a stock base does not fit exactly, which is one of the honest reasons a site-built pan sometimes wins.
A panel-and-base system fitted into a sound alcove with the drain reused can genuinely be done in one to three days. A tiled conversion with a site-built pan runs one to two weeks of working time, because the waterproofing and the setting materials have to cure between stages and the pan should be water-tested before tiling. Custom glass adds a further wait after the tiling is finished, and that wait is the part most often left out of a schedule.
They install an engineered system — a moulded base and wall panels — over the existing alcove, which removes the trades and the cure times that make a tiled job slow. The panels are easy to clean and have no grout, which is a real advantage. The trade-offs are equally real: it is a manufactured finish rather than a tiled one, the existing substrate is typically not removed or inspected, and this is the part of the market where in-home selling with a price that expires that evening is most common. Sound walls and a wish for speed make it a reasonable choice. Suspected water damage makes it the wrong one.
Often yes, because the work usually involves altering drain and supply plumbing, and requirements vary by jurisdiction. Swapping like for like in the same position sometimes does not. Your contractor should know the local answer and pull it — and the inspection, which happens with the alcove open, is the only independent look anyone will get at the pipework and the framing before they are closed up.
Yes to all three, and add solid blocking in the walls for grab bars whether or not you want bars today. A niche costs almost nothing while the wall is stripped and saves a shelf hanging off the tile forever. A handheld on a slide bar makes the shower easier to clean and easier to use seated. Blocking is the cheapest item in the whole project and the only one that is genuinely impossible to add later without reopening the wall.

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