Cabinets · Service

Cabinet refacing, explained by someone who does not sell it

New doors, new drawer fronts, and a matching skin over the box faces. It is a real option and a real commitment — here is what it does well, where it goes wrong, and how it stacks up against the alternatives.

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In short

What is cabinet refacing?

Refacing keeps your cabinet boxes and replaces everything you can see: new doors, new drawer fronts, and a matching veneer or laminate skin applied over the exposed face frames and end panels. Because the boxes stay, your kitchen layout stays too. A typical kitchen is three to five days on site once the components arrive, and the room remains broadly usable throughout. It is a finish and appearance project, not a functional one.

Triggers

Signs you need cabinet refacing

The doors are dated, damaged or a style you dislike, but the boxes are square and firmly attached
The layout genuinely works and you do not want to change where anything is
Your cabinets are solid plywood or well-made carcases worth keeping
You want a colour or style change beyond what the existing wood can be stained to
A kitchen you need to keep usable — refacing does not gut the room the way replacement does
You want soft-close doors and drawers, which are typically included in a reface as new hardware comes with the new fronts

Seeing something not on this list? Browse cabinets problems by symptom →

The job

How cabinet refacing actually works

Assess whether the boxes deserve to stay

Every reasonable reface starts by testing the carcases: are they square, are the wall cabinets securely fixed, is the sink base sound, do the shelves sag. Plywood boxes are usually worth keeping. Swollen particleboard is not.

Watch for: A quote produced from photographs or from a showroom conversation. If nobody has opened the sink base and pushed on a shelf, the box condition has not been assessed at all.
Measure every opening individually

Doors are made to the specific opening they cover, and in a kitchen built decades ago nominally identical openings are frequently not identical. Each is measured, labelled and ordered separately, along with the hinge type and overlay.

Watch for: Doors ordered from a count and a standard size list. Fronts that are a fraction out show as uneven reveals across a run, and unlike a paint defect there is no on-site correction.
Choose the skin material, and understand what it is

The face frames and end panels are covered with either a real wood veneer or a rigid thermofoil / laminate. Wood veneer can be stained to match the new doors and behaves like wood. Laminate is more consistent and more moisture-tolerant but cannot be refinished later.

Watch for: The word "wood" used loosely in the sales conversation. Ask specifically whether the skin is real wood veneer or a printed laminate, because the two age completely differently and the price difference is real.
Prepare and skin the face frames

Existing surfaces are cleaned, degreased and abraded so the adhesive bonds, then the veneer or laminate is applied to the face frames, the end panels and any exposed sides. Edges are trimmed and the corners detailed.

Watch for: Skin applied over a heavy, greasy or silicone-contaminated finish without proper preparation. Adhesion failure at the edges is the classic reface defect and it usually shows up within the first year or two, starting at the corners nearest the range.
Hang the new fronts and adjust the reveals

New doors are hung on new hinges, drawer fronts fitted, and everything adjusted so the gaps between doors are even along the run. New handles are drilled to a jig. Filler strips and light rail are replaced to match.

Watch for: Old hinges reused with new doors. Hinge type, overlay and boring have to match the new fronts, and a mixed set is why some refaced kitchens never quite sit straight.
Deal with the parts that are not doors

Interiors, shelves, drawer boxes and hinges are the parts a reface does not automatically address, and whether they are included varies enormously between quotes. Drawer box replacement in particular is often a separate line.

Watch for: A quote that is silent on drawer boxes. Old drawers on wooden runners behind a beautiful new front is the most common disappointment on a completed reface.

Money

What does cabinet refacing cost?

Refacing is priced by the number of doors and drawer fronts plus the linear footage of face frame to be skinned, so a kitchen with many small doors costs more than its size suggests. It typically lands well below new cabinetry and well above painting. See the cabinets cost guide for current ranges.

See the full cabinet refacing cost guide — by material, size and region →

Straight answer

When cabinet refacing is the wrong call

Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.

You want to change the layout. Refacing is defined by keeping the boxes exactly where they are. If the dead corner, the missing drawer bank or the walk between sink and range is the actual complaint, refacing spends a substantial sum and fixes none of it.
The boxes are particleboard and already failing. Swollen bottoms at the sink, shelves that sag, fasteners that no longer hold — spending on fronts attached to that is money on a countdown. The cheapest way to know is to open the sink base and look.
Your doors are sound and you only dislike the colour. If the fronts are solid wood in good order, painting or refinishing achieves the change for considerably less. Refacing buys you new doors; if you did not need new doors, you are paying for them anyway.
You are being sold in your kitchen with a price that expires this evening. This category has a well-established high-pressure in-home sales culture. Any quote that is only valid tonight should be treated as a reason to obtain two more, not as an opportunity.
The kitchen is a rental or a flip. The gap between the cost of refacing and the cost of painting is large, and the visible difference to a tenant or a buyer walking through is small. This is a spend that pays back in daily use, not on a viewing.
You have thermofoil doors that are peeling. Peeling thermofoil means heat and moisture have already got past the film. New fronts are the right call, but the underlying substrate condition needs checking rather than covering.

Your options

Types of cabinet refacing

Refacing versus replacement

The head-to-head, with the box-condition test that decides it.

Door styles

Shaker, slab, raised panel and inset — the choice that does most of the visual work.

Door materials

Solid wood, MDF, thermofoil and laminate, and how each ages in a kitchen.

Colour selection

Where the new fronts have to sit against countertops and flooring you are keeping.

Compare cabinets options side by side →

Before you sign

What to check when hiring for cabinet refacing

Is the skin real wood veneer or a laminate?

Two different products at two different prices, frequently described with the same word. Veneer can be refinished later; laminate cannot.
Are drawer boxes and slides included, or only the fronts?

The most common exclusion, and the one people regret. New fronts on forty-year-old wooden runners still open like forty-year-old drawers.
Have you inspected the sink base and the wall cabinet fixings?

The two places box failure shows first. A reface over failing carcases is a short-term result at a long-term price.
What happens to interiors, shelves and hinges?

A reface addresses what you see from outside. Whether the inside is touched at all varies between quotes and is rarely stated up front.
Who manufactures the doors, and what is the lead time and warranty?

The doors are the product you are actually buying. A refacing company that will not name the door manufacturer is worth pressing.
Is this price available in a week?

A straightforward test of the sales process. Genuine pricing survives a few days of thought.

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Local pros

Cabinet Refacing near you

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Related work

Often done at the same time

Cabinet Door Replacement

New doors only, without skinning the boxes

Cabinet Painting

The lower-cost route to a colour change

Cabinet Refinishing

Keeping the wood and changing the stain

Cabinet Installation

When the boxes need to go

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FAQ

Cabinet Refacing — questions people ask

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What is the difference between refacing and refinishing?

Refacing replaces the doors and drawer fronts and covers the visible box faces with a new veneer or laminate skin — you end up with new components. Refinishing keeps the original doors and takes their existing finish back so a new stain and clear coat can be applied to the same wood. Refacing lets you change the door style; refinishing can only change the colour of the style you already have. They are different trades, different price brackets and different timescales.

Is cabinet refacing worth it?

It is worth it when three things are true at once: the boxes are genuinely sound, the layout genuinely works, and you want a different door style rather than just a different colour. Take away any one of those and something else is a better use of the money — new cabinets if the layout is wrong, replacement if the boxes are failing, paint or refinishing if only the colour bothers you.

How long does refacing take?

Typically three to five days on site for an average kitchen, after a lead time of several weeks while the doors are made to your measurements. The practical advantage over replacement is that the kitchen stays broadly usable during the work — the boxes, the countertop and the plumbing are all undisturbed, so you are not living without a sink.

Can any cabinet be refaced?

Physically, most can. Sensibly, no. The test is the carcase: plywood boxes that are square, firmly fixed and free of water damage are good candidates. Particleboard boxes that have swollen at the sink base, shelves that have taken a permanent bow, and wall cabinets whose fixings have loosened are not, because refacing does nothing for any of those and the new fronts inherit the problem.

Does refacing include new hinges and handles?

New hinges effectively have to be included, because hinge type, overlay and boring must match the new doors — reusing old hinges is a warning sign rather than a saving. Handles and knobs are usually a selectable item with an allowance. What is much less consistent is drawer boxes and slides, so ask about those specifically rather than assuming they come with the drawer fronts.