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Concrete services

Concrete contractors pour and finish flatwork and structural concrete: driveways, patios, walkways, garage and shed slabs, steps, footings, and retaining walls, plus repair work like resurfacing and slab leveling. Most residential jobs are slab-on-grade flatwork, where the outcome depends less on the concrete itself and more on subgrade prep, jointing, finishing, and curing.

Almost every residential concrete job is the same five steps: excavate and compact the subgrade, set forms, place the concrete, finish the surface, then cut joints and cure it. The parts homeowners never see — the compacted base and the curing — are the parts that decide whether the slab lasts. NRMCA lists improper subgrade preparation, omitted or badly placed joints, adding water on the job, over-finishing, and inadequate curing as the main causes of cracking (CIP 4).

A quote that says only "pour 600 sq ft driveway, $X" is not a scope of work. A real one names slab thickness, base material and depth, concrete strength in psi, whether the mix is air-entrained, reinforcement type, joint layout, finish type, and the curing method. If a contractor will not put those on paper, you have nothing to hold them to later.

Decorative work — stamping, staining, exposed aggregate, broom vs. trowel finish — is a separate skill from structural flatwork. Ask to see finished jobs of the same pattern and color that are at least two years old, not fresh photos. Color and sealer both age.

How to choose

Ask what psi mix they are ordering
For exterior slabs that stay wet, freeze, and see deicing chemicals, NRMCA points to 4,000 psi air-entrained concrete consistent with ACI 332, and 3,500 psi where deicers will not be used. A contractor who cannot tell you the mix is guessing.
Get the joint plan before the pour, not after
Joint locations should be planned before placement. NRMCA recommends contraction joints at 24 to 36 times slab thickness — about 10 feet for a 4-inch slab — with 15 feet as a practical maximum.
Confirm who preps the base
Topsoil and soft spots have to come out, and the fill must be compacted and sloped to drain. If the bid excludes excavation or base stone, that money reappears later.
Ask how they will cure it
Curing should start as soon as finishing is done and continue 3 to 7 days, per NRMCA. "We'll hose it down if we remember" is not a curing plan.
Separate demolition from the pour
Removing an old driveway is its own line item — Concrete Network puts tear-out and removal at roughly $1.00 per square foot. Make sure it's in writing either way.
Match the crew to the work
A crew that pours footings all week is not automatically good at hand-colored stamped patios, and vice versa. Ask what they do most.
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FAQ

Concrete services — common questions

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Concrete Network says a concrete driveway should be a minimum of 4 inches thick. Heavier vehicles and poor soils are reasons to go thicker — ask your contractor to justify the number they quoted.
No. NRMCA is explicit that wire mesh and reinforcement in slabs cannot prevent cracking. Placed correctly, reinforcement holds cracks tight and reduces their width. Anyone selling mesh as crack-proofing is overselling it.
Concrete Network's guidance: about 24 hours before walking on a standard broom or trowel finish, three days before bikes and skateboards, seven days before driving a car — at which point the slab has roughly 70% of its potential strength — and 28 days before RVs or large trucks.
It can be. NRMCA warns that excess water added at the jobsite raises slump, increases bleeding and segregation, and can leave a weak mortar layer at the surface that later scales. It recommends placing most slab concrete at a 3 to 5 inch slump.
Sources

Where these figures come from

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