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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523A gate is a hinged structure carrying its own weight off a single post, thousands of times a year. It is the part of the fence that fails, and the part every quote treats as an accessory. We match you with crews who build it as structure.
Gate installation means setting a pair of posts strong enough to carry a swinging load, building or hanging a braced gate leaf between them, and fitting hinges and a latch that stay aligned as the ground moves. Almost every sagging gate is a post or a brace problem, not a hinge problem. Width, swing direction and what the gate has to clear are decided before the posts go in, not after.
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Decide the opening before anything is ordered
Width is driven by what has to pass through it — a person, a mower, a trailer, a skid steer, a rubbish bin. Measure the widest thing, not the average thing, and add clearance for hands and turns.
Watch for: A standard pedestrian gate specified by habit. Widening a gate afterwards means moving a post, which means the concrete, which means most of the job again. This is the cheapest decision to get right and one of the more expensive to revisit.
Set the swing and the approach
Which way it opens is decided by the slope, by what it would hit, by whether you want it to close behind you, and sometimes by code where the gate serves a pool or an exit route. A gate on rising ground cannot swing uphill without a large ground clearance.
Watch for: A gate that swings into a slope. It will either be built with a gap under it big enough to defeat the point of the fence, or it will jam in its first wet season.
Build the gate posts as structure
The hinge post carries the whole gate as a cantilever and is being levered out of the ground every time the gate opens. It should be heavier stock, set deeper, or braced — and on wide or heavy gates, all three.
Watch for: Gate posts identical to line posts. This is the single most common reason a gate sags within a year, and it is invisible at handover. Ask specifically how the gate posts differ.
Brace the leaf
A gate leaf is a rectangle, and a rectangle without a diagonal will rack into a parallelogram under its own weight. Wood gates take a diagonal brace or a tensioned cable; metal gates are usually welded and braced in the frame.
Watch for: A wood brace running the wrong way. A timber diagonal must run from the bottom of the hinge side up to the top of the latch side so it works in compression. Fitted the other way it is in tension, the joint pulls apart, and the gate sags anyway.
Hang and fit hardware
Hinges are set, the leaf is hung and shimmed to level, then the latch and keeper are positioned last. Outdoor hardware wants to be rated for exterior use — plated steel in a wet climate rusts to a seized hinge in a few seasons.
Watch for: Interior-grade or unrated hardware on a coastal or high-rainfall site. Also check the hinges are adjustable: a gate that can be re-trued with a spanner in year three is worth far more than one that cannot.
Test the full arc, loaded
The gate should open and close through its whole travel without touching the ground, latch without lifting, and stay where you leave it. Self-closing hinges, where fitted, should close it from any position in the arc.
Watch for: A gate tested once, from the closed position, on a dry day. Ask for it to be swung fully open and released, and check the clearance at the low point of the ground, not the high one.
A gate costs several times what the same width of fence costs, because it is posts, a braced leaf and hardware rather than a panel. Wide and double gates rise steeply again. Adding powered operation is a separate project with its own electrical work.
See the full fence gate installation cost guide — by material, size and region →
Gate and opening planning tools → Size the openings and count the gates before you compare quotes — gates dominate the difference between them.
Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.
Pedestrian gates, double drive gates, latches and locks, and privacy screening — specified individually rather than bundled.
Hinges, latches, drop rods and automatic gate operators, with what each is actually rated for outdoors.
Whether a powered gate is worth it for your approach, gradient and traffic — resolved side by side rather than sold.
Gate placement planning against your access routes, bin runs, utility meters and yard equipment.
What those terms actually mean and where they are required rather than optional.
How are the gate posts different from the line posts on this fence?
The question that predicts whether the gate sags. If the answer is "they are the same", you have found the future problem before it happens.
How is the leaf braced, and which way does the diagonal run?
Bottom of the hinge side to top of the latch side, in compression. Someone who answers this quickly has built gates that stayed square.
What clearance is there under the gate at the lowest point of the ground?
Gates are usually hung where the ground is highest and then scrape somewhere else. Ask about the low point specifically.
Are the hinges adjustable, and what are they rated for outdoors?
Adjustable hinges let the gate be re-trued cheaply for years. Unrated hardware seizes, and then the hinge is the job.
Which way does it swing, and why that way?
You want a reason — slope, obstruction, code — not a default. Reversing a swing after the posts are set is not a small change.
If I want it automated later, what should you leave in place now?
A conduit run and a slightly heavier post cost very little at build time and save a trench later. Ask even if automation is a maybe.
What is warranted on the gate specifically, and for how long?
Gate sag is the most common fence complaint and the one most often excluded as "wear". Get the position in writing before you sign.
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