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Fence removal, priced by what is underground

Taking a fence down is easy. Getting the posts out is the job, and what is on the end of them decides the price. We match you with crews who quote the concrete and the disposal instead of discovering them.

In short

What is fence removal?

Fence removal is the dismantling of panels, rails or mesh and the extraction of the posts and whatever they are set in. The panels are the quick part; the posts and their concrete collars are the work, and neither can be assessed from the street. It is also the only moment when your boundary line is fully clear and visible — which makes it the right time to verify it.

Triggers

Signs you need fence removal

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The job

How fence removal actually works

  1. Establish who owns it and who is allowed to remove it

    A fence wholly on your side of the line is yours. A fence on the line, or one your neighbour paid for, is not automatically yours to take down.

    Watch for: Removing a boundary fence without telling the neighbour. This is the most common way an ordinary project becomes a dispute, and it is entirely avoidable with a conversation and, ideally, something in writing. If any cost was ever shared, treat it as shared.

  2. Find out what the posts are set in

    Posts set in dirt or gravel pull with a lever and some digging. Posts in a concrete collar have to be excavated or pulled with equipment, and the collar on an older fence can be much larger than expected.

    Watch for: A quote given without probing at least one post. This single unknown is the widest variable in fence removal pricing, and a quote that has not accounted for it will be revised on site.

  3. Utility locates, again

    Pulling posts and digging out collars disturbs the same ground as installing them did — and the original fence may have been built before the utilities were.

    Watch for: Locates skipped because "nothing is being installed". Removal digs. Request the locate.

  4. Dismantle and stage

    Panels, rails and mesh come off first, then the posts. Material is stacked or loaded as it comes down, because a yard full of loose fence with nails in it is a hazard for as long as it sits there.

    Watch for: Material left on the ground overnight in a yard with children, pets or a dog you were relying on the fence to contain. Ask what the site looks like at the end of each day, and remember the dog has no fence now.

  5. Extract the posts and deal with the holes

    Collars come out, or in some cases are broken down and left below grade by agreement. Holes are backfilled and tamped, because a soft backfill settles into a trip hazard over the following months.

    Watch for: Concrete left in place without you agreeing to it. It is sometimes reasonable — and it is a problem the day someone tries to set a new post, plant a tree or dig a trench in the same line. Get the position stated in the quote.

  6. Haul and dispose

    Disposal is a real cost and often a separate line. Metal fencing may have scrap value; vinyl and composite generally do not; and pressure-treated timber is restricted in some jurisdictions.

    Watch for: Treated timber going onto a burn pile. Burning treated wood is unsafe and prohibited in many places. Ask where the material is going, and never burn it yourself.

Money

What does fence removal cost?

Removal is usually quoted per linear foot or per post, plus haulage and disposal. What moves it most is whether posts are set in concrete and how far a truck can get to the line. Where removal precedes a new fence, ask for it bundled — it is normally cheaper that way.

See the full fence removal cost guide — by material, size and region →

Fence estimating tools → Measure the run and count the posts before you call — both are what removal is priced on.

Straight answer

When fence removal is the wrong call

Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.

Straight answer

Can I do this myself?

Reasonable to DIY

  • Removing panels, boards, rails and mesh — this is genuinely straightforward and takes the bulk of the labour out of a quote
  • Pulling posts that are set in dirt or gravel
  • Sorting material for scrap versus disposal before a hauler arrives
  • Photographing the line while it is clear, and locating your survey pins
  • Backfilling and tamping the post holes properly

Call a licensed pro

  • Extracting posts set in large or deep concrete collars
  • Anything requiring equipment access across a lawn or a soft yard
  • Removal where the boundary or the ownership is unsettled
  • Any section forming part of a pool barrier
  • Disposal of pressure-treated timber where local rules restrict it
Before you sign

What to check when hiring for fence removal

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Local pros

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Related work

Often done at the same time

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FAQ

Fence Removal — questions people ask

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Three things, none of which are visible from the street. First, what the posts are set in — dirt and gravel pull easily, concrete collars have to be excavated or machine-pulled, and older collars are often larger than anyone expects. Second, access, because if a truck cannot reach the line then every panel and every lump of concrete is carried out by hand. Third, disposal, which is a genuine cost and is sometimes quoted separately. Length matters less than any of these.
Not always. Leaving broken-down collars below grade is a legitimate approach and it saves real money, and it is fine if nothing will ever be dug in that line. It stops being fine the day someone tries to set a new post, plant a tree or run a trench along the same line — including the crew installing your replacement fence, who will charge for the discovery. The point is that this should be a decision you made, written into the quote, rather than something you find out later.
Not unilaterally, and this is the part of fence removal that generates disputes. A fence wholly inside your line is yours. A fence on the line is commonly treated as shared, and several states have statutes about boundary fences that affect what either party can do. If a neighbour ever contributed, treat it as shared. Get agreement in writing first.
It is hauled and disposed of, usually as a separate line on the quote. Metal fencing — chain link, ornamental steel, aluminium — often has scrap value that can offset part of the haulage, so it is worth asking. Vinyl and composite generally do not. Pressure-treated timber is the one to ask about specifically, because its disposal is restricted in some jurisdictions and it should never be burned. A contractor who knows their local rules will tell you where it is going.
Verify the boundary. This is the only moment in the life of a fence when the line is completely clear, and it costs almost nothing to have your survey pins located and to photograph where they sit relative to where the old posts were. If the old fence was in the wrong place, this is your one cheap opportunity to correct it — rebuilding on the same wrong line in permanent materials is how an inherited problem quietly becomes yours.

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