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Plumbing problem

You have a burst pipe

Water off first. Everything else can wait a few minutes; that cannot.

Written by Priya SharmaReviewed by Michael Thompson
First question

Is this an emergency?

Emergency

Call someone now - this gets worse by the hour.

Call (866) 582-8523

You’re probably seeing

  • Water spraying, running or dripping from a wall, ceiling or floor
  • A sudden drop in water pressure at the taps
  • The sound of running water when nothing is switched on
  • A bulging or sagging patch of ceiling or drywall
  • No water at all from a fixture after a hard freeze
Diagnosis

What it probably is

  1. A freeze-thaw burst

    The most common cause in cold climates

    Happens during or just after a cold snap, usually in an exterior wall, an unheated crawl space, an attic, or a garage. The split often shows once the ice thaws, not while it is frozen.

  2. Corrosion in older pipe

    Common in older homes

    A pinhole or a weeping joint on old galvanised or thin copper, often with discoloured water beforehand. Tends to recur elsewhere in the same system.

  3. Excess water pressure

    Common and under-diagnosed

    Repeat failures at joints, banging pipes, and relief valves that discharge. High incoming pressure or a failed pressure-reducing valve stresses the whole system.

  4. A failed fitting or a bad joint

    Common after renovations

    A leak precisely at a connection rather than along a length of pipe, often on recent work or on push-fit fittings.

  5. Physical damage

    Less common, but immediately obvious once found

    A nail or screw through a stud bay, usually discovered after hanging something or after work in the house.

What to do before anyone arrives

  1. Shut off the main water supply

    It is usually where the supply enters the house - a basement wall, a crawl space, a utility closet, or a meter box near the street. Turn it fully clockwise. If you have never located it, do that today rather than during the next emergency.

    If you genuinely cannot find or turn the valve, call your water utility - many will shut off at the street. Do not lose ten minutes searching while water runs.

  2. Kill the power to affected areas

    If water is anywhere near outlets, light fittings or an electrical panel, switch off those circuits at the breaker.

    Do not walk through standing water to reach a panel, and do not touch a breaker while standing in water. If the panel is wet or unreachable, call an electrician or the utility rather than improvising.

  3. Open the lowest taps in the house

    With the main off, opening taps on the lowest floor and outside drains the remaining water in the system downwards, which reduces what is left to escape from the break.

  4. Get the water up and start air moving

    Towels, a wet vacuum, fans and open interior doors. The EPA advises that wet buildings and furnishings must be dried within 24 to 48 hours in order to avoid mould growth, so this begins now rather than after the repair.

    If water has gone into a wall cavity, under flooring or above a ceiling, surface drying is not enough - that needs equipment, and it is a restoration job.

  5. Photograph everything before you move or remove anything

    Wide shots of each affected room, close-ups of the pipe and of damaged belongings. If you intend to make an insurance claim, this is the evidence, and it takes two minutes.

  6. Call a plumber - and a restoration company if the building got wet

    These are two different trades. The plumber stops the leak; drying out a wet structure is separate work with separate equipment. If the water reached a ceiling, a wall cavity or flooring, book both on the same day.

    This is the end of the homeowner sequence. Do not attempt a permanent repair on a pressurised line, and treat pipe-repair clamps as a temporary measure at best.

Money

What it costs to fix

Ranges below are for the repair itself. For full replacement pricing see the plumbing cost guides.

Typical repair costs - Burst pipe
What it is Is it the expensive part? What decides your bill
The pipe repair itselfUsually notAccess. A visible basement pipe is a short job; one inside a finished wall is not
Emergency or out-of-hours call-outAdds to itTime of day. A burst at 2am costs more than the same repair at 10am
Opening and closing a wall or ceilingSometimesHow much finished surface has to come out to reach the break
Structural dryingFrequently the largest lineHow long the water sat, and how far it travelled
Repipe, if failures keep recurringA project, not a repairThis is a planned job - get more than one opinion

U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, Occupational Outlook Handbook (May 2025 wage data).

The repair is usually the small half of a burst pipe event; the drying and the making-good are usually the large half. That is the entire reason the first hour matters more than the choice of plumber. Labour anchor: the national median wage for plumbers, pipefitters and steamfitters is $30.67 an hour (BLS, May 2025), billed on top of a call-out, with emergency rates higher. We do not publish a national repair price because access varies more than any average can carry.

Your call

Can I fix this myself?

Water and electricity together are the real hazard in a burst pipe, not the water itself. Do not enter standing water where outlets, appliances or a panel may be energised, and do not reach into a wet ceiling cavity - waterlogged plasterboard fails suddenly and brings light fittings with it. If a ceiling is bulging, stay out of the room.

Reasonable to DIY

  • Shutting off the main water supply
  • Switching off affected circuits at the breaker, safely
  • Opening low taps to drain the system
  • Removing standing water and starting airflow
  • Photographing damage for a claim

Call a pro

  • Any permanent repair to a pressurised water line
  • Opening walls or ceilings to reach a break
  • Structural drying of cavities, flooring and ceilings
  • Diagnosing high water pressure or a failed PRV
  • Assessing whether repeat failures mean a repipe

The first ten minutes are entirely yours and they matter more than anything a plumber does afterwards: water off, power off where it is wet, taps open, towels down. Everything after that is two trades - one to fix the pipe, one to dry the building - and the second is the one people forget to call until the mould is already there.

Before you pay

Is this covered by insurance?

Whether a claim is worth filing depends on the cause, your deductible and how the damage happened - not on the repair price alone.

Read how plumbing insurance claims work →

FAQ

Burst pipe - questions people ask

Still have a question? Talk to our team →

In most homes it is where the supply pipe enters the building: against a basement wall, in a crawl space, in a utility or laundry closet, or near the water heater. In warmer climates with no basement it is often outside near the meter, sometimes under a small ground-level cover by the street. It is worth finding and labelling it now, and turning it once to check it actually moves - a seized valve discovered during a burst is its own emergency.
Policies commonly cover sudden and accidental water damage, while excluding damage from long-term seepage that was left unaddressed, and the distinction is usually where disputes arise. Flood from outside the building is a separate matter and normally needs separate cover. Because the wording varies, the practical advice is the same in every case: photograph everything before you move it, keep receipts for emergency work, and report it promptly rather than after you have finished cleaning up.
Shutting the main off and draining the system downward through the lowest taps is the real answer, and it is usually enough. Repair clamps and self-fusing tape can slow a leak on an accessible straight section, but treat them strictly as temporary - they are a way to buy hours, not a fix, and relying on one is how a second flood happens. Do not attempt any repair on a line that is still pressurised.
The EPA advises that buildings and furnishings that get wet must be dried within 24 to 48 hours in order to avoid mould growth. That window is why a burst pipe is often two calls rather than one: the plumber stops the water, but drying a wet wall cavity or subfloor needs equipment and takes days. If water reached anything more than a hard floor you can towel dry, book the restoration visit the same day rather than waiting to see how it dries out.
Because the split usually happens while frozen and only reveals itself on thawing. As water freezes it expands and can rupture the pipe wall, but the ice plug keeps sealing the break while it stays frozen. When the thaw comes, the plug melts and the line starts flowing through the split. That is why the hours after a cold snap ends are the moment to be watching for it, and why a fixture that produced no water during the freeze deserves attention rather than relief.

Sources

Sources last checked

  1. Mold Course Chapter 2: Why and Where Mold GrowsU.S. Environmental Protection AgencyRetrieved 2026-09-14
  2. Plumbers, Pipefitters, and Steamfitters - median pay, May 2025U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, Occupational Outlook HandbookRetrieved 2026-09-14

Sources for the figures and the legal requirements cited on this page.

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Who wrote and checked this

Written by

Priya Sharma

Senior Content Strategist & Editor · 10 years

Senior editor and strategist.

Reviewed by

Michael Thompson

Senior Home Improvement Reviewer · 20 years

Senior technical reviewer.

Team-written. Second-person reviewed. Sources dated. Report a correction.

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