Plumbing · Service

Faucet installation — and whether you need a plumber at all

Most faucet swaps are a genuine homeowner job. The ones that are not fail for the same reason every time: the shut-off valves under the sink.

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In short

What is faucet installation?

Replacing a faucet means shutting off the supply, disconnecting the old unit from underneath, dropping the new one through the deck holes, and reconnecting the supply lines. On a modern sink with working shut-off valves it is genuinely a homeowner job, usually under an hour, and the manufacturer's own instructions are the best guide you will find. It stops being a homeowner job the moment the shut-off valves under the sink refuse to close — which is far more common than the how-to videos suggest.

The job

How faucet installation actually works

Check the shut-offs before buying anything

Close both angle stops under the sink and open the faucet. If water keeps running, the valves have failed and they are the actual job. Replacing an angle stop means shutting off the house main and, on older compression stops, cutting and refitting — which is where the plumber's time goes.

Watch for: Forcing a seized valve. Old multi-turn stops snap or start weeping at the packing nut, and a dry job turns wet with the main still on.
Match hole count, spread and deck configuration

Sinks are drilled for one, three or four holes at a standard spread, and faucets are sold for specific configurations. A single-hole faucet fits a three-hole sink with a deck plate; a widespread faucet does not fit a single-hole sink at all.

Watch for: Buying the faucet before measuring. Hole spacing and the depth of the cabinet behind the basin are the two dimensions people skip.
Removal, and the part that is genuinely unpleasant

The old faucet comes out from underneath: supply lines off, mounting nuts released, unit lifted clear, old sealant cleaned off. On an old installation those nuts are corroded and reached lying on your back inside a cabinet. A basin wrench exists specifically for this.

Watch for: Corroded nuts rounded off by the wrong tool. Once the flats are gone the options get destructive fast.
Set, connect, and test under pressure

The new faucet is bedded on its gasket or sealant, secured from below, and connected with new braided supply lines — reusing old ones is a false economy. The aerator comes off, water runs to flush debris, and every joint is checked dry-handed after ten minutes and again the next day.

Watch for: Over-tightening compression fittings on supply lines. It deforms the seal and produces a slow weep that shows up as a swollen cabinet floor months later.
Aerators, operation check and under-sink dry-down

Hot and cold are verified, handles operate smoothly, spray functions work, and the cabinet base is dry after a sustained run. Supply stops are confirmed free and labeled if replaced.

Watch for: A dry-looking joint that weeps after ten minutes of pressure. Leave the cabinet open long enough to catch slow leaks before you leave.

Money

What does faucet installation cost?

A straightforward faucet swap is a short, low-priced visit in most markets — often quoted as a flat task rate rather than hourly. Replacing failed shut-off valves, modifying a stone countertop, or running new supply lines are separate line items and usually cost more than the faucet fitting itself.

See the full faucet installation cost guide — by material, size and region →

Straight answer

When faucet installation is the wrong call

Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.

The faucet only drips. That is usually a worn cartridge or seat, and manufacturers ship replacements cheaply — often free under a lifetime warranty. Replacing the whole unit for a drip is the expensive way to fix a small part.
The problem is low pressure at that one tap. Almost always a blocked aerator. Unscrew it, rinse the screen, refit — two minutes and no tools.
You are replacing the sink or countertop within the year. Fit the faucet on the bench as part of that job. It is far easier and you pay for the labour once.
The shut-off valves have failed and you are only budgeting for the faucet. The valves are the real job. Get them quoted before you commit, or you will be agreeing to an unplanned second item with the water already off.
You want a finish that has to be ordered. Book the fitting after the unit is physically in your house — plumbers charge for a return visit when the box holds the wrong variant.

Your options

Types of faucet installation

Single-hole faucet

One deck hole. Fits a three-hole sink with a deck plate, but not the reverse.

Centerset

Handles and spout on one base plate at a standard narrow spread. The common bathroom configuration.

Widespread

Separate spout and handles at a wider spread. Needs three correctly spaced holes.

Compare plumbing options side by side →

Straight answer

Can I do this myself?

Reasonable to DIY

Swapping a like-for-like faucet on a sink whose shut-off valves close properly
Replacing the braided supply lines at the same time — always do this, they are inexpensive
Removing and cleaning a clogged aerator, which fixes a surprising share of "the new faucet has no pressure" complaints

Call a licensed pro

The shut-off valves will not close, weep, or have no handle. This is the single most common reason a DIY faucet job becomes a call-out, and it means working on the live supply
There are no shut-off valves under the sink at all — the supply is teed directly
The countertop is stone, quartz or solid surface and a new hole has to be drilled
The hole count or spread does not match and the sink or counter needs modifying
You are adding a fixture where none existed, which means new supply and drain connections and often a permit

Before you sign

What to check when hiring for faucet installation

Does the price include replacing the shut-off valves if they have failed?

The most likely reason the final bill exceeds the quote on this job. Ask for the valve replacement price up front so it is not a doorstep decision.
Am I supplying the faucet, and does that change the warranty you offer?

Many plumbers warrant their labour but not a homeowner-supplied unit. Perfectly reasonable — just know which parts of the job are covered.
Will you replace the supply lines as part of the job?

They should be replaced every time. Braided lines are cheap and old ones are a common failure point behind a cabinet.
Can you fit multiple fixtures in the same visit?

The call-out is the expensive part of a small job. Batching two faucets, or a faucet and a toilet, is the cheapest way to buy this work.
Will you test for dry joints after pressurising and again before leaving?

Slow weeps under cabinets are how floors swell months later. A second look is cheap insurance.
If the hole configuration is wrong, what is the change-order path?

Better to know the exit before the old faucet is on the driveway.

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Local pros

Faucet Installation near you

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Related work

Often done at the same time

Toilet Installation

Worth batching into one visit

Plumbing Repair

Failed shut-off valves

Leak Detection

Damp cabinet, no visible source

Drain Cleaning

If the sink also drains slowly

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FAQ

Faucet Installation — questions people ask

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Can I install a faucet myself?

On a normal sink with functioning shut-off valves, yes — and the manufacturer's instructions for your specific model are the best guide available. You need a basin wrench, new braided supply lines, and the willingness to lie inside a cabinet. Test the shut-off valves before you start: if they will not close fully, stop, because everything after that happens with live water.

How long does a faucet installation take?

A like-for-like swap is typically under an hour for a plumber and one to two hours for a first-timer. What extends it is corroded mounting nuts, failed shut-off valves needing replacement first, or a configuration mismatch found after the old faucet is out — almost all overruns are discovered underneath the sink.

Do I need a plumber to replace a kitchen faucet?

Not usually. You do if the shut-off valves have failed or do not exist, if the supply stubs from the wall are corroded, if a stone countertop needs a new hole drilled, or if you are relocating rather than replacing the faucet. Those are the cases where a small job becomes a plumbing alteration.

Should I buy my own faucet or let the plumber supply it?

Either works. Buying your own gives you the full range and often a better price, but many plumbers will then warrant only their labour. A plumber-supplied faucet gives a single point of accountability if it fails early, at a markup. If you buy your own, have it in the house before the appointment and check the box holds the right configuration and finish.

Why is there no pressure after a new faucet install?

Most often a blocked aerator full of debris from the lines, or supply stops not fully reopened. Remove the aerator, flush, and confirm both valves are open. If pressure is still wrong, the issue may be upstream — not the faucet itself.

Do I need to replace the drain assembly too?

Not always, but old pop-up assemblies and flimsy drains often leak or look wrong under a new faucet. If the sink is already half-disassembled, upgrading a tired drain in the same visit is frequently the cheaper sequence.