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Beam replacement — the shoring is the job

Everyone talks about the new beam. What decides whether this goes well is the temporary support that carries your house while the old one is out, and what the posts underneath are standing on.

In short

What is beam replacement?

A carrying beam — often called a girder — runs beneath the floor and collects the load of the joists bearing on it, passing that load down through posts to footings and into the ground. Replacing one means taking that load off temporarily, removing the failed member, and putting a new one in with proper bearing at both ends and proper support beneath. The temporary support is the part that requires real competence, and it is the part most quotes describe in one line. Posts, columns and the footings under them belong to this same job.

Triggers

Signs you need beam replacement

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The job

How beam replacement actually works

  1. Determine why the beam failed before specifying a new one

    A rotted beam end and an undersized original beam are different problems with different remedies. Rot means water arriving from somewhere — a foundation pocket without ventilation, a plumbing leak, ground moisture in an unconditioned crawl space. Overload or undersizing means the member was never adequate for what it carries, sometimes because a later renovation added load nobody accounted for. Sizing of the replacement is an engineer's determination, based on what it carries and how far it spans.

    Watch for: A like-for-like replacement ordered without asking why the original failed. Put a new beam into the same wet pocket and you have bought yourself the same repair on a delay.

  2. Plan the temporary support — and check it reaches the ground

    Before anything is removed, the load has to go somewhere else. Temporary shoring picks up the floor structure on either side of the beam and carries it down through posts to a base that can actually take it. The critical, frequently missed requirement is that the temporary load path continues all the way to solid ground or an adequate footing — not to a basement slab of unknown thickness, and not to a floor with an unsupported void beneath it.

    Watch for: Shoring posts set straight onto a basement slab or crawl-space soil with nothing spreading the load. A slab is a wearing surface, not a foundation, and concentrating the weight of a house on a small area of it is how shoring punches through.

  3. Bearing — where the new beam actually lands

    A beam is only as good as what holds its ends. That may be a pocket in the foundation wall, a bearing plate, a column, or a new post and footing. The bearing has to be sized, level, dry, and made of something that will not crush or rot. Where a beam bears into masonry, moisture separation matters as much as the strength of the pocket.

    Watch for: Bearing detail left unspecified in the quote. "Rest it in the existing pocket" is not a specification when the existing pocket is exactly where the last beam rotted.

  4. Posts, columns and the footings under them

    The posts carrying an interior beam transfer a concentrated load into the ground and need a footing sized for it. Original construction sometimes provided one and sometimes did not; later basement finishing has occasionally removed or bypassed one. Replacing rotted or rusted posts often means opening the slab, forming a footing, and setting the new column on a base that isolates it from moisture. Adjustable steel columns are common — permanent ones are a different product from the temporary screw jacks that look like them.

    Watch for: A temporary jack post left in place as the permanent support. It is a recurring finding in older basements, it is not what those are for, and an inspector will call it.

  5. Access and staging — getting the member in

    A long beam has to physically reach the middle of a basement or crawl space. Sometimes it does not: the stair turns, the doorway is too narrow, the crawl-space hatch is small. Options are a member built up in place from multiple pieces, a steel section craned through a window or an opening cut for it, or an engineered member specified in transportable lengths. This is a genuine constraint that changes both method and price, and it should be settled at the site visit.

    Watch for: Nobody measuring the route in. Discovering on installation day that the beam cannot get to where it is going means an improvised splice made under time pressure, which is the worst way to arrive at a structural connection.

  6. Lifting — slowly, or not at all

    Where the floor above has sagged, the question of whether to lift it back is separate from the question of replacing the beam. Recovery is done gradually over days or weeks, not in an afternoon, because everything above — drywall, tile, plumbing, door frames — has settled into the sagged position and will crack as it moves back. Full recovery is often neither achievable nor desirable, and an honest contractor says so before starting rather than after the ceiling opens up.

    Watch for: A promise to bring the floor fully level. Some of the sag is permanent set in the framing, and chasing the last of it does more damage than it repairs.

  7. Permit, inspection and closing out

    Replacing a primary carrying member is structural work and generally requires a permit, with the engineer's specification supporting the application and inspection points before anything is concealed. Connections, bearing and post bases are exactly what an inspector wants to see, and they are exactly what gets covered first.

    Watch for: A schedule that puts insulation, drywall or a crawl-space vapour barrier back before the inspection. If it is covered, it comes off again — at your expense, and after an argument about whose fault the sequencing was.

  8. Deal with the water before you finish

    Where the failure was rot, the repair is only half done when the beam is in. Crawl-space ground moisture, an unvented foundation pocket, poor exterior drainage or a leak overhead all need addressing, or the new member starts the same clock as the old one — frequently a separate trade, and frequently the line that gets dropped when the budget tightens.

    Watch for: A quote that replaces the beam and is silent on moisture. Ask directly what is being done about the source, and get the answer in the scope.

Money

What does beam replacement cost?

Wide range, driven far more by access, shoring and post footings than by the beam itself. A short accessible span in a walk-out basement and a long member craned into a low crawl space with new footings are not comparable jobs. Get shoring, footings and moisture work priced as named lines.

See the full beam replacement cost guide — by material, size and region →

Straight answer

When beam replacement is the wrong call

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Your options

Types of beam replacement

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Before you sign

What to check when hiring for beam replacement

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Local pros

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Related work

Often done at the same time

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FAQ

Beam Replacement — questions people ask

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Temporary shoring picks up the floor structure on both sides of the beam and carries the load down through posts to a base capable of taking it. The part that matters is the bottom: the temporary path must continue to solid ground or an adequate footing, not simply stop on a basement slab. Ask the contractor to describe their shoring plan in detail — the quality of that answer tells you more than anything else in the quote.
Sometimes. Depending on where and why it failed, an engineer may specify a repair to a bearing end, a supplementary member, or an additional post that shortens the span. Whether any of those restores what the beam is required to carry is a determination, not a preference — which is why the specification comes from someone with no stake in which option is chosen.
Structural alteration of a primary carrying member normally requires one, and requirements vary by jurisdiction, so confirm with your local building department rather than with the contractor alone. The permit brings inspection at the points that matter — bearing, connections and post bases — all of which get concealed early if nobody is scheduled to look.
Straighter, usually. Perfectly level, often not — and chasing the last of it is frequently the wrong call. Everything above has settled into the sagged shape over years, so recovery is done gradually and stops at the point where further lifting cracks more than it corrects. A contractor who sets that expectation before starting is being honest with you.
There are permanent adjustable columns and there are temporary screw jacks, they look broadly similar, and only one is intended to stay. Which product is being installed, what it bears on below, and how it is fixed at top and bottom are the questions. A temporary jack left in as the permanent support is a common finding in older basements and is not a substitute for a specified column on a proper footing.

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