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Appliance installation — what "free" does not include

Delivery teams work to a tight script. Knowing before the truck arrives what they will and will not connect is the difference between a finished kitchen and a box in your hallway.

In short

What is appliance installation?

Retailer "free installation" usually means uncrating the appliance, sliding it into an existing opening, and connecting it to services that are already there, already compliant, and already accessible. The exclusions are the interesting part: haul-away, new hoses and connectors, gas work, altering a cabinet opening, and anything electrical beyond an existing outlet. Establish them before delivery day, not during it.

Triggers

Signs you need appliance installation

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The job

How appliance installation actually works

  1. Measure the opening, and then measure the route to it

    Two measurements matter and people usually take one. The opening — width, depth including door swing and handle, and height including levelling feet. And the path — front door, hallway turns, stair widths, kitchen door casing. An appliance that fits the space perfectly and cannot reach it is the most avoidable delivery-day failure there is.

    Watch for: Countertop overhang and cabinet stiles that shave a critical fraction of an inch off a nominal opening. Measure the actual gap.

  2. Confirming what the delivery team is contracted to do

    Retail installation is fulfilled by a delivery crew working from a job sheet, and their remit is narrow. Ask specifically about haul-away of the old appliance, whether new hoses, cords and connectors are supplied, and whether they may touch gas at all. Crews decline work outside their remit, and they are right to.

    Watch for: Assuming the crew will reuse your existing hoses and cords. Many are instructed to install new ones only, and if you have not bought them the appliance stays unconnected.

  3. Electrical — 240 volts, cords and dedicated circuits

    Ranges and electric dryers run on 240-volt circuits, and dryer cords come in three-prong and four-prong versions — the appliance often ships with no cord so the right one can be fitted. Where a circuit does not exist or an outlet needs replacing, that is licensed work and must happen before delivery. See electrical services.

    Watch for: Discovering an outlet and plug mismatch with the crew standing in your kitchen. Photograph your existing outlet and check it against the new appliance's requirement when you order.

  4. Gas, water and drain connections

    Gas appliances need a shutoff at the appliance, an approved flexible connector and a leak check, and in many jurisdictions only a licensed fitter may make that connection. Water-fed appliances need a serviceable shutoff, a sound supply line, and for a dishwasher an air gap or a secured high loop. See plumbing services.

    Watch for: A shutoff valve that has not been turned in years. They frequently will not close, or will not reseal afterwards, and finding out on delivery day turns an installation into an emergency.

  5. Anti-tip brackets, levelling and securing

    A freestanding range must be secured with an anti-tip bracket — a safety device that ships with the appliance and fixes to the floor or the wall behind. Dishwashers are fastened to the countertop or adjacent cabinets so they do not tip when the loaded door opens. Front-loading washers need transit bolts out and all four feet firm. None of this is optional finishing, and everything should be run and leak-checked before the crew drives away.

    Watch for: A range slid into place with the bracket still in the box, or a delivery note signed before anything has been run. Once the crew has gone, an installation defect becomes a scheduling problem.

Money

What does appliance installation cost?

Basic hookup is often bundled with the purchase where the connections already exist. Extras — haul-away, new lines and cords, gas connection, an added circuit, or altering a cabinet opening — are charged separately and are frequently the larger number. Get every exclusion priced before delivery day rather than on it.

See the full appliance installation cost guide — by material, size and region →

Straight answer

When appliance installation is the wrong call

Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.

Your options

Types of appliance installation

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Straight answer

Can I do this myself?

Gas connections are not a DIY task. An appliance gas connector has to be the approved type, correctly made up, and leak-tested — and in most jurisdictions the work is restricted to licensed fitters. If you smell gas at any point during or after an appliance move, leave the building and call the gas utility from outside rather than trying to tighten anything.

Reasonable to DIY

  • Measuring the opening and the delivery route before you buy, including door swings and handle projection
  • Photographing your existing outlet, shutoff valves and connections and checking them against the new appliance specification
  • Clearing the path, lifting rugs and protecting flooring ahead of the delivery window
  • Removing the transit bolts from a new front-loading washer before its first cycle

Call a licensed pro

  • Any gas connection, disconnection or fuel conversion
  • A new dedicated circuit, a 240-volt outlet, or replacing a mismatched dryer or range receptacle — see electrical services
  • New shutoff valves, supply branches or drain arrangements for a dishwasher, fridge or laundry
  • Built-in, panel-ready and column appliances, fitted into joinery where trim kits have to line up
  • Over-the-range microwaves and anything lifted overhead, which need two people and a hard-wired connection
Before you sign

What to check when hiring for appliance installation

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Related work

Often done at the same time

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FAQ

Appliance Installation — questions people ask

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Generally uncrating, positioning, and connecting to services that already exist in acceptable condition — nothing more. Removing the old appliance, supplying hoses, cords or connectors, gas connections, added circuits and cabinetry changes are chargeable or excluded. Ask for the exclusion list in writing when you buy, because the crew works from a job sheet, not a conversation.
Because electric dryer outlets come in more than one configuration and the manufacturer cannot know which is in your laundry. The cord is bought to match the receptacle you have. Photograph your outlet before delivery — a plug mismatch found with the crew in your house is one of the commonest reasons an installation is not completed.
A small metal bracket fixed to the floor or wall that engages a foot or the rear of a freestanding range, so it cannot tip forward when weight goes on an open door. It ships with the range, it is a safety device rather than an accessory, and it is skipped often enough that you should confirm it is engaged.
Often not. Many retail delivery crews are prohibited from making gas connections, and in many jurisdictions that work is restricted to licensed fitters regardless. Establish the position when you order, and if the crew cannot connect it, arrange a fitter for the same day.
Positioning and cabinet fixings are within reach of a confident owner, but three things catch people out: the drain needs an air gap or a properly secured high loop, the connection may be hard-wired rather than a plug, and a disposal knockout plug must be removed. Get those wrong and the machine leaks or never drains.

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