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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523Delivery teams work to a tight script. Knowing before the truck arrives what they will and will not connect is the difference between a finished kitchen and a box in your hallway.
Retailer "free installation" usually means uncrating the appliance, sliding it into an existing opening, and connecting it to services that are already there, already compliant, and already accessible. The exclusions are the interesting part: haul-away, new hoses and connectors, gas work, altering a cabinet opening, and anything electrical beyond an existing outlet. Establish them before delivery day, not during it.
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Measure the opening, and then measure the route to it
Two measurements matter and people usually take one. The opening — width, depth including door swing and handle, and height including levelling feet. And the path — front door, hallway turns, stair widths, kitchen door casing. An appliance that fits the space perfectly and cannot reach it is the most avoidable delivery-day failure there is.
Watch for: Countertop overhang and cabinet stiles that shave a critical fraction of an inch off a nominal opening. Measure the actual gap.
Confirming what the delivery team is contracted to do
Retail installation is fulfilled by a delivery crew working from a job sheet, and their remit is narrow. Ask specifically about haul-away of the old appliance, whether new hoses, cords and connectors are supplied, and whether they may touch gas at all. Crews decline work outside their remit, and they are right to.
Watch for: Assuming the crew will reuse your existing hoses and cords. Many are instructed to install new ones only, and if you have not bought them the appliance stays unconnected.
Electrical — 240 volts, cords and dedicated circuits
Ranges and electric dryers run on 240-volt circuits, and dryer cords come in three-prong and four-prong versions — the appliance often ships with no cord so the right one can be fitted. Where a circuit does not exist or an outlet needs replacing, that is licensed work and must happen before delivery. See electrical services.
Watch for: Discovering an outlet and plug mismatch with the crew standing in your kitchen. Photograph your existing outlet and check it against the new appliance's requirement when you order.
Gas, water and drain connections
Gas appliances need a shutoff at the appliance, an approved flexible connector and a leak check, and in many jurisdictions only a licensed fitter may make that connection. Water-fed appliances need a serviceable shutoff, a sound supply line, and for a dishwasher an air gap or a secured high loop. See plumbing services.
Watch for: A shutoff valve that has not been turned in years. They frequently will not close, or will not reseal afterwards, and finding out on delivery day turns an installation into an emergency.
Anti-tip brackets, levelling and securing
A freestanding range must be secured with an anti-tip bracket — a safety device that ships with the appliance and fixes to the floor or the wall behind. Dishwashers are fastened to the countertop or adjacent cabinets so they do not tip when the loaded door opens. Front-loading washers need transit bolts out and all four feet firm. None of this is optional finishing, and everything should be run and leak-checked before the crew drives away.
Watch for: A range slid into place with the bracket still in the box, or a delivery note signed before anything has been run. Once the crew has gone, an installation defect becomes a scheduling problem.
Basic hookup is often bundled with the purchase where the connections already exist. Extras — haul-away, new lines and cords, gas connection, an added circuit, or altering a cabinet opening — are charged separately and are frequently the larger number. Get every exclusion priced before delivery day rather than on it.
See the full appliance installation cost guide — by material, size and region →
Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.
Gas connections are not a DIY task. An appliance gas connector has to be the approved type, correctly made up, and leak-tested — and in most jurisdictions the work is restricted to licensed fitters. If you smell gas at any point during or after an appliance move, leave the building and call the gas utility from outside rather than trying to tighten anything.
Exactly what is included in the installation, and what is billed separately?
Get it itemised in writing at the point of sale. Haul-away, new lines and electrical or gas work are the usual exclusions.
Are you permitted to connect gas, and are you licensed for it here?
Many crews are prohibited from touching gas. If yours is, you need a fitter booked for the same day or the appliance sits idle.
Will you supply the cord, hoses and connectors, or should I buy them?
Crews often cannot reuse existing ones by policy, and buying in advance prevents a wasted delivery.
Will the anti-tip bracket be fitted and can you show me it in place?
A safety device that ships in the box and gets skipped under time pressure. Verify it, do not assume it.
Will you run the appliance and check for leaks before you leave?
A cycle run and a dry connection is the only proof it worked. After the crew leaves it becomes a return visit.
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