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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523Wood is the one surface that is walked on like a driveway and damaged like siding. Get matched with crews who know which of those two facts governs your deck — and who will tell you when the boards are past cleaning.
Deck cleaning removes the algae, mildew, ground-in dirt and greying film that build up on a wood or composite deck, usually as preparation for sealing or staining rather than as an end in itself. The defining constraint is that timber is soft and fibrous: enough force to lift dirt off the surface also tears the wood fibres beneath it. Competent deck cleaning is therefore mostly chemistry, gentle agitation and rinsing, with pressure used sparingly if at all.
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Establish what the deck is made of, and how sound it is
Pressure-treated pine, cedar, a tropical hardwood and a composite board all behave differently under both water and chemistry. Before anything is applied the crew should also be looking for loose boards, proud fasteners, soft spots at the joist line and rot at the posts.
Watch for: A composite deck treated as if it were timber. Composite carries its own manufacturer care instructions, and the wrong cleaner or too much force can permanently mark the cap layer. Hand those instructions over if you still have them.
Clear the deck and protect what surrounds it
Furniture, grills, planters and rugs come off entirely rather than being shuffled around, because a half-cleared deck cleans in patches. Planting beneath and beside the deck is soaked first, and anything growing through the structure gets particular attention because runoff concentrates there.
Watch for: Planters left in place "to save time". You will see their outlines in the finished surface for the life of the boards.
Apply the cleaner and let it lift the growth
A deck cleaner is applied across the whole surface and given time to work on the biological film and embedded dirt. Where the growth is heavy, a stiff brush on a pole does the mechanical work that a pressure washer would otherwise do — with far less consequence for the fibre.
Watch for: Cleaner allowed to dry on the boards, and spot-treating one bad area only. Both leave the deck two-tone once dry, and on wood a patchy clean shows up dramatically the moment stain goes on.
Rinse with the grain, at low pressure and constant distance
Where pressure is used at all on timber it is a wide fan held well back and moved continuously along the length of the board, never held still and never worked across the grain. On composite it is gentler still. The rinse runs until the water coming off the boards is clear.
Watch for: A narrow tip, a close hold, or an operator stopping mid-board. Each gouges softwood in about a second, and the marks are in the timber permanently.
Let it dry fully, then decide about coating
Wood needs to dry through, not just look dry, before a sealer or stain will bond. Between cleaning and coating is also when you find out whether the boards have raised grain that needs sanding back.
Watch for: A same-visit seal upsell. Sealing over a damp board traps moisture under the coating, and the coating fails early and blotchily — which then has to be stripped before you can try again.
Deck cleaning is priced by deck area after the boards are seen, with steps, railings, spindles and lattice adding hand-work rather than square footage. Heavy growth, stripping an old failed coating, and any sanding are separate items. The Cost Guide sets out how these stack.
See the full deck cleaning cost guide — by material, size and region →
Exterior cleaning tools → Measure the deck field, steps and railings before you take quotes.
Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.
The real hazard on a deck is not the machine, it is the surface. Wet boards with cleaner on them are genuinely slippery, and decks have edges, steps and drops. Rinse as you go, wear grippy footwear, and never work backwards towards an unguarded edge.
Will you use pressure on my boards at all, and if so at what distance and which tip?
The most predictive question you can ask about a deck. "Mostly chemical, brushed, rinsed at a wide fan from well back" is the professional answer. Enthusiasm about pressure is a warning.
Is the cleaner you use compatible with what is on my deck now, and with what is going on next?
Some cleaners leave residue that interferes with coatings, and some strip more coating than you expect. The crew should be thinking about the finish that follows, not just today's appearance.
Are railings, spindles, steps and the skirt included, or only the deck field?
Detail work is where the hours go, and it is the most common quiet exclusion. A freshly cleaned floor between grubby railings looks worse than not cleaning at all.
What happens if a board comes up fuzzy or gets marked?
You want to hear that it should not happen and what they would do if it did. A contractor who has never had to answer this has either never damaged a deck or never been asked.
How long do you want the deck to dry before anything is applied to it?
If the answer is "a few hours, we can seal the same day", stop. Timber holds water for longer than its surface suggests, and premature coating is the most common cause of a deck finish failing in its first season.
How do you protect the planting under and around a raised deck?
Runoff from a deck concentrates at the drip line and straight through the gaps onto whatever is beneath. Beds under a deck take a heavier dose than beds beside a wall.
Do you also strip and sand, or do you hand that off?
Establishes the boundary of the job up front. Plenty of good cleaning crews do not sand — the problem is only when you find that out on the day the stainer arrives.
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