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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523Three completely different products are sold under this one name, and they differ in price by an order of magnitude. Work out which one you are being quoted before you compare a single number.
A French drain is a trench holding perforated pipe surrounded by washed stone and wrapped in filter fabric, sloped so water collects into the pipe and runs somewhere useful. The problem is that the name gets applied to at least three unrelated installations: a shallow yard drain that clears standing surface water from a low spot, a curtain or interception drain dug deeper across a slope to cut off subsurface water heading toward the house, and an interior perimeter drain installed inside the basement under the edge of the slab. Before you compare quotes, establish which of the three each contractor means — because they solve different problems and the prices are not remotely comparable.
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Establish which drain is actually being proposed
Ask for the trench depth, the length, where it starts, where it discharges, and whether it is intercepting surface water or subsurface flow. Those five answers identify the product regardless of what it is called on the quote.
Watch for: A quote that says only "French drain — 60 linear feet". That describes a trench, not a solution, and it makes two bids impossible to compare.
Rule out the cheaper fixes first
Downspouts discharging at the wall, overflowing or undersized gutters, and a grade that has settled toward the house cause a large share of the water that gets blamed on a missing drain. Extending downspouts and re-establishing slope costs a fraction of a trench.
Watch for: A contractor who quotes a drain without walking the roof drainage with you. If they have not looked up, they have not diagnosed anything.
Find where the water is going and confirm there is somewhere to send it
Every drain needs an outlet lower than its inlet — daylight on a slope, a dry well, or a permitted storm connection. Fall is set with a laser or a level over the full run, not eyeballed.
Watch for: No identified outlet, an outlet on a neighbour's property, or a flat lot where the fall is claimed rather than measured. A drain with nowhere to go relocates your puddle instead of removing it.
Excavate to the depth the job actually requires
A surface yard drain can be shallow. A curtain drain has to reach below the level the subsurface water is travelling at, often down toward the base of the layer that is carrying it, or it simply passes underneath.
Watch for: A curtain drain dug to convenient shovel depth on a slope. Too shallow is the single most common reason this type fails, and it fails while looking perfectly built.
Bed the pipe in washed stone and wrap it in filter fabric
Clean, angular washed stone gives water room to move. Non-woven filter fabric lining the trench keeps soil fines out of that stone. Together they are what stops the drain silting shut over a few seasons.
Watch for: Sock-wrapped pipe used instead of a fabric-lined trench in silty or clay soil. The sock clogs against the pipe and the drain dies quietly. Also watch for unwashed crusher run backfilled straight against the pipe.
Orient and connect the pipe correctly
Perforations, solid runs, cleanouts and any tie-in of downspouts or surface grates get planned as one system. Cleanouts at the ends and at direction changes are what make the drain maintainable in ten years.
Watch for: No cleanouts anywhere. A buried drain with no access cannot be jetted or inspected, so its first blockage is also its last.
Backfill and restore the surface honestly
Stone to near the surface with fabric folded over the top keeps the drain permeable; capping it with topsoil and sod makes a tidier lawn but slows how quickly surface water reaches the stone. That is a design trade-off you should be asked about.
Watch for: A drain capped with heavy soil and sod when it was sold as a surface-water fix. It will look finished and drain far more slowly than promised.
Prices are usually quoted per linear foot and swing enormously with depth, soil, access and what is on top — a shallow lawn run is a different order of expense from a deep curtain drain cut through a slope with machinery. Get depth and outlet stated before comparing rates.
See the full french drain installation cost guide — by material, size and region →
Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.
Call for utility locates before any digging, every time, including on your own property. Gas, electric, water, sewer and communications lines are routinely shallower than people expect, and a locate is free where a strike is not.
Is this a surface drain, a curtain drain, or an interior system?
The question that makes competing quotes comparable. Contractors bidding different products against each other is the normal state of this market.
How deep is the trench, and how did you decide that depth?
Depth is what separates a drain that intercepts subsurface water from one that lets it pass underneath. A confident answer with a reason behind it is a good sign.
Where does it discharge, and have you confirmed the fall?
You want a physical location you can walk to and a measured drop, not an assurance. This is where gravity drains fail on flat lots.
What stone and what fabric, and is the trench lined or the pipe sleeved?
In silty and clay soils a fabric-lined trench with washed stone lasts; a sock on the pipe surrounded by fines does not. It is the difference between a decade and a couple of seasons.
Where are the cleanouts?
A drain you cannot inspect or jet is a drain you will eventually re-dig. Cleanouts are cheap at installation and impossible to add later.
Who calls in the utility locates, and who is liable for a strike?
Should be the contractor, in writing. Get it settled before a machine is on your property.
What did you rule out before recommending this?
A drainage contractor who tells you the gutters and grading were checked first has earned more credibility than one who arrived with a price.
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