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Pier and beam repair, where the wood usually fails first

These houses sit on piers with timber girders spanning between them. Most of what goes wrong is rot, crushed shims and settled piers — and most of that traces back to what the crawl space has been doing to the wood.

In short

What is pier and beam repair?

A pier-and-beam house is carried on a grid of piers with timber girders running between them, joists on top, and a ventilated crawl space underneath. Repair means restoring that support system where it has failed — re-shimming or replacing supports that have dropped, correcting piers whose footings have settled, and replacing girder, sill or post timber that has rotted. On these houses the wood is usually the weak link, and moisture is usually why.

Triggers

Signs you need pier and beam repair

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The job

How pier and beam repair actually works

  1. Establish where the floor actually is, in numbers

    A relative elevation survey across the whole floor plan turns "it feels sloped" into a map of where the support system has dropped and by how much. On a pier-and-beam house this immediately distinguishes a single settled pier from a girder sagging between two sound ones.

    Watch for: A proposal that names a pier count before anyone has measured the floor. On this construction type the low point tells you which supports to look at, and skipping it means supports get added where they are easy to reach rather than where the floor needs them.

  2. Get into the crawl space and probe the wood

    Every girder-to-pier bearing point, the sill plates on the perimeter, and the base of every interior post get checked with a probe. Rot rarely announces itself on the surface — timber can look sound and be soft a quarter inch in, especially at the end grain where it sits on masonry.

    Watch for: An assessment done from the access hatch with a flashlight. Bearing points are where this system fails and they are distributed across the entire footprint, so a report that only describes what was visible from the opening has not seen the problem.

  3. Separate the wood failures from the pier failures

    A dropped floor has two very different causes: the pier moved down into the soil, or the wood on top of it lost section and crushed. The remedy, the price and the durability all diverge from here, and both can be present in the same house.

    Watch for: Everything being attributed to settlement. Shimming a rotted girder back up transfers load onto compromised timber and buys a season or two. If rot is present, adding support without addressing the wood is treating the symptom.

  4. Deal with the water before rebuilding into it

    Rot needs sustained moisture. Standing water, a downspout discharging beside the crawl vent, a plumbing drip, grade sloping in — the source has to be identified and interrupted, or new timber sits in the same conditions that destroyed the old. The vapour and encapsulation half of that conversation belongs to crawl space encapsulation, not to this repair.

    Watch for: A structural proposal that never mentions where the water came from. New pressure-treated girders in a wet crawl space still fail at the connections, the fasteners and the untreated members they bear against.

  5. Correct the failed supports

    Depending on the finding this means new footings under settled piers, replacing deteriorated block or timber posts with properly bearing supports, or reworking supports that were installed on inadequate footings by a previous owner. Each support needs to land on something capable of carrying it, not on the soil surface.

    Watch for: New posts set directly on grade or on a single patio paver. It is quick, it looks like a repair, and it settles again — usually within a few seasons, and usually after the warranty conversation has been forgotten.

  6. Replace compromised girders, sills and posts

    Rotten timber is cut back to sound material and spliced or replaced, with temporary support carrying the load while the work happens. Sill plate replacement along a perimeter wall is slower and more invasive than any of the pier work, which is why it is the item most often quietly left out of a quote.

    Watch for: Rot found "only where we could reach". Ask specifically whether every bearing point was probed and what was found at each, because the ones behind ductwork and plumbing are the ones nobody wants to reach.

  7. Shim and adjust the floor deliberately, not maximally

    Once the supports are sound, the floor is brought up in controlled increments using shims or adjustable supports. How far it goes is a decision with consequences upstairs — the framing, finishes and plaster have adapted to their current geometry over decades.

    Watch for: A promise to bring the whole floor back to flat in one visit. Fast, aggressive adjustment on an old timber house is how you produce new cracks in plaster and doors that suddenly do not close. Agree the target and the pace in writing before work starts — see foundation leveling for that decision in full.

  8. Re-measure and hand over a record

    The elevation survey gets repeated after the work so there is a documented before and after, along with a record of what was replaced, what was shimmed and what was left alone. That record is what any future inspector — or buyer — will want.

    Watch for: A one-line invoice describing "foundation repair, per proposal". You want the support locations, the members replaced, and the final elevations, because in five years nobody will remember which supports are new.

Money

What does pier and beam repair cost?

Pier-and-beam work ranges from a modest visit to re-shim a few supports to a substantial project once girder or sill replacement is involved. Wood replacement, crawl-space access and the number of supports needing new footings drive the number far more than the house's square footage does.

See the full pier and beam repair cost guide — by material, size and region →

Straight answer

When pier and beam repair is the wrong call

Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.

Your options

Types of pier and beam repair

Shimming and support adjustment

Restoring bearing where the floor has dropped but the members are sound.

New footings under settled piers

When the support itself has moved down into the soil.

Girder and sill replacement

Cutting back to sound timber where rot has taken section.

Underpinning hardware and specifications

Pier types and their published capacities, without the sales layer.

Crawl space moisture control

The vapour and encapsulation side, which this repair deliberately leaves to the specialists.

Compare foundation repair options side by side →

Before you sign

What to check when hiring for pier and beam repair

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Local pros

Pier and Beam Repair near you

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Related work

Often done at the same time

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FAQ

Pier and Beam Repair — questions people ask

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Neither is inherently better; they fail differently and they are repaired differently. Pier-and-beam gives you access — plumbing and wiring are reachable, and supports can be adjusted, which is a genuine advantage over a slab. The trade-off is a wood support system in a damp environment, so the maintenance burden is real and it is mostly about keeping the crawl space dry.
On this construction the middle of the house is usually carried by interior piers and girders that sit on lighter footings than the perimeter wall, and they are also the hardest to inspect. A dip toward the centre commonly points to an interior support that has settled or a girder that has lost section at a bearing point, rather than to the perimeter foundation.
Sometimes, where sound material remains and a new member can pick up the load with proper bearing at both ends. It is a legitimate approach, not automatically a shortcut. What makes it a shortcut is fastening new timber alongside rot without removing the deteriorated material or fixing the moisture that produced it, in which case you have added weight rather than capacity.
Usually not in one go, and sometimes not at all. Old timber-framed houses have adapted to their settled shape — plaster, tile, door frames and trim have all found their positions. Recovering the full amount can crack finishes that were fine the day before. Decide a target with the person who measured, write it into the contract, and treat stability as the objective rather than flatness.
A screwdriver or awl pressed firmly into the timber is the standard field check — sound wood resists, deteriorated wood takes the point easily and the material crumbles rather than splintering. Colour and surface staining alone are unreliable. Bearing points and end grain are where to check first, because that is where water collects and stays.
Only if the existing supports were inadequate in number or bearing. Extra supports on good footings can reduce girder deflection, but a grid of new posts standing on soft ground adds cost without adding capacity, and it complicates the crawl space for anyone working under there later. What matters is whether each support reaches something that will carry it.

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