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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523A spa needs attention every week for as long as you own it. Water chemistry, filters, a periodic drain and refill, and getting it through winter. Here is the actual routine, what it costs you in time, and which parts are worth handing to a service company.
Hot tub maintenance is the continuing routine that keeps spa water safe and the equipment healthy: testing and adjusting water chemistry, cleaning and rotating filters, draining and refilling on a schedule, and preparing the spa for winter. Unlike most home services it is mostly not something you hire out — the weekly water work is the owner's job and it does not stop. A service plan handles the periodic and technical parts around it.
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Test the water, then adjust — in that order
The routine is test first, act on the reading, retest. Sanitiser level, pH and alkalinity are the core, with hardness and any stabiliser depending on your system and your fill water. Adjusting blind is how people chase their own tail for weeks.
Watch for: Adding sanitiser to fix cloudy water without checking pH. Sanitiser effectiveness depends heavily on pH being in range, so out-of-range water can be full of chemical and still not sanitised. Fix the balance and the sanitiser starts working.
Look after the filters properly
Filters need regular rinsing, periodic deep cleaning with a proper filter cleaner rather than a hose alone, and eventual replacement. Owning a second set so one can be cleaning and drying while the other works is the single most practical habit in spa ownership.
Watch for: A hose rinse being treated as a clean. Rinsing removes surface debris; it does not touch the oils and lotions that clog the media and choke flow — and choked flow is behind a large share of "my spa will not heat" calls.
Drain and refill on a schedule
Spa water accumulates dissolved solids that no amount of chemical will remove, and eventually the only fix is fresh water. The right interval depends on how heavily the spa is used relative to its volume, and the manufacturer will give guidance.
Watch for: Water that has become steadily harder to balance despite correct dosing. That is usually the signal you are past due for a refill rather than a chemistry problem to solve.
Purge the plumbing when you refill
Biofilm builds inside the pipework where you cannot see it and it survives normal sanitiser levels. A purge product run through the system before draining clears it, and refill day is the only convenient moment to do it.
Watch for: Foam or a persistent smell that returns days after a fresh fill. That usually means the plumbing was never purged and the new water is being recontaminated from inside the pipes.
Clean the shell and the cover underside
With the spa empty, the shell gets cleaned with a spa-safe product, and the underside of the cover — which sits in warm vapour permanently — gets cleaned and inspected. The cover is a part of the system, not an accessory.
Watch for: Household cleaners on the shell. Residue foams badly on refill and some products attack acrylic. Also check the cover for water weight while it is off — see cover replacement.
Winterise, or commit to running through
There are two valid cold-climate strategies and one disastrous one. Keep it running and heated all winter, with the freeze protection working and the cover in good condition. Or shut it down properly — fully drained, plumbing and pumps cleared of water, blown through, and covered. The disastrous option is leaving it full and switching it off.
Watch for: A partial drain. Water left in pumps, heater and low points is exactly what splits when it freezes, and freeze damage typically appears at several points at once. If you are shutting down for winter, have it done thoroughly or have someone do it.
Two ongoing costs, and the second surprises people. Chemicals, filters and test kits are modest and predictable. Electricity to hold a spa at temperature is the larger figure and it is permanent, driven by climate, insulation and cover condition. Service plans are typically priced per visit or as a seasonal package.
See the full hot tub maintenance cost guide — by material, size and region →
Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.
What exactly is in each visit, and how often do you come?
Plans vary enormously. A monthly or quarterly visit does not cover the weekly water routine, and you need to know that before assuming it does.
Are chemicals and filters included, or billed on top?
The two headline prices you are comparing between companies often include different things. Get consumables stated explicitly.
Does the plan include drain, refill and a plumbing purge, and how many a year?
This is the part genuinely worth paying for. A plan that never drains the spa is missing the most useful thing on the list.
Is winterisation included, and what does it consist of?
In a freezing climate this is the visit that protects the spa from its most expensive failure mode. Ask specifically whether the lines and pumps are blown through.
Will you teach me the routine on the first visit?
A good service company wants you competent between visits, because it means fewer emergency calls. One that keeps the routine mysterious is selling dependence.
What happens if you find a fault — is diagnosis included or charged separately?
Establishes the boundary between the plan and repair work, before you are standing beside a spa that will not heat.
How do I cancel, and is there a minimum term?
This is a recurring commitment. Ask now rather than discovering an auto-renewal when you sell the house.
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