Insulation services

Most homeowners call an insulation contractor because a room is cold, the bills are high, or the attic looks thin. Those symptoms usually have two separate causes - not enough R-value, and air leaking between the house and the attic. They need two different fixes. A contractor who only quotes you insulation depth is only solving half the problem.

Attic insulation is the highest-value job in most homes and the easiest to inspect yourself. Wall insulation in an existing house usually means dense-packing blown-in material through small holes drilled in the siding or drywall, which is more disruptive and more expensive per square foot than an attic. Crawl space and basement work is often as much a moisture project as an insulation project. Spray foam is a specialty application with real chemical hazards during installation, and air sealing is caulk, foam, weatherstripping and gasketing in the places air actually moves.

Sealing air leaks and adding insulation together saves up to 10% on annual energy bills, per ENERGY STAR. That is a real number and it is smaller than most sales pitches imply. Treat a contractor promising 30-50% savings from insulation alone as a red flag, not a bargain.

The best first step is usually a diagnostic, not a product. A blower-door test measures how leaky your house actually is, and it tells the crew where to spend the sealing budget. If a contractor quotes a whole-house foam job without ever measuring air leakage, they are selling material, not performance.

How to choose

Air seal before you insulate

ENERGY STAR recommends completing attic air sealing before the attic insulation project. Once loose-fill is blown in, the leaks are buried and sealing them costs far more.

Start with the attic

It is the cheapest square footage to treat, the easiest to verify afterward, and usually where the biggest gap between current and recommended R-value sits.

Ask what happens to the existing insulation

Adding on top of dry, undisturbed fiberglass is normal and fine. Removal is a separate line item and should only be recommended for a real reason - rodent contamination, mold, water damage, or a wiring repair.

Treat crawl spaces as a moisture job first

Insulating a wet crawl space traps the water problem. Get the drainage, grading, and vapor barrier settled before anyone installs insulation down there.

Get the scope in square feet and target R-value

"Insulate the attic" is not a scope. "Blow cellulose over 1,150 sq ft to R-49" is. Written target R-value is how you check the work later.