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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523There are four different things sold under this name, at four different prices, by three different kinds of professional. Which one you need depends entirely on why you are buying it.
An electrical inspection is a documented assessment of a home's wiring, panel, grounding and devices by someone qualified to judge them. The important distinction is who and why: a general home inspector gives you a visual overview inside a whole-house report, a licensed electrician gives you a trade assessment with the panel open, and a jurisdictional inspector signs off permitted work. They are not substitutes for one another, and only one of them can be hired by you at will.
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Establishing which inspection you are buying
Pre-purchase due diligence, an insurance-driven assessment, a pre-renovation capacity survey and a municipal sign-off of permitted work are four different products. The first three you commission; the fourth is triggered by a permit and performed by the jurisdiction. Saying which one you need is the fastest way to get the right person and the right price.
Watch for: A quote that does not ask why you want it. The scope of a capacity survey and the scope of a safety assessment barely overlap.
The service and panel
The panel comes off and the assessment starts there: service size, panel make and condition, breaker sizing against conductor sizing, double-tapped breakers, signs of overheating, the main bonding arrangement, and how much spare capacity exists. This is the part a general home inspector often cannot do to the same depth, because opening and assessing a live panel is trade work.
Watch for: An inspection performed without the panel cover coming off. Most of what matters is behind it.
Branch wiring and what the house is actually made of
Sampling in the attic, the basement, the crawlspace and behind a selection of device plates establishes what wiring types are present — modern cable, mid-century cloth-covered cable, aluminium branch circuits, live knob-and-tube — and whether earlier work was done to a decent standard. Mixed-era houses are the norm, not the exception.
Watch for: A report that names the house's build year and infers the wiring from it. Many houses have been partly rewired, and many have not been rewired where you would expect.
Devices, grounding and protection
Receptacles are tested for correct wiring and grounding, ground-fault and arc-fault devices are checked where present and their absence noted where current code would expect them, and the grounding electrode system is assessed. Smoke and carbon monoxide alarm coverage is usually noted too.
Watch for: Ungrounded three-prong outlets — a two-prong receptacle replaced with a three-prong one on an ungrounded circuit. It is common, it is invisible without a tester, and it defeats the safety assumption of everything you plug in.
The report, and what you do with it
A useful report separates the genuinely unsafe from the merely non-current, and puts the findings in priority order with an indication of effort. Age alone is not a defect, and a report that lists every deviation from current code with equal weight is not decision-useful.
Watch for: A report that is really a quote. If every finding maps to a service the inspecting company sells, you have bought a sales call with a document attached.
A standalone electrical inspection by a licensed electrician commonly runs a few hundred dollars for an average home, more for large or complex properties and more again where a written report for an insurer or lender is required. The electrical portion of a general home inspection is included in that fee and is far less detailed.
See the full electrical inspection cost guide — by material, size and region →
Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.
Due diligence on a house you have not bought yet.
Panel type, aluminium and knob-and-tube, in writing.
What the existing service will support before you design.
The jurisdictional sign-off that closes a permit.
Are you a licensed electrician, a home inspector, or both?
Different qualifications, different depth, different acceptance by insurers and lenders. Ask plainly and ask for the licence number.
Do you also sell the repairs you might recommend?
Not disqualifying, but it should be on the table before the report is written. The best answers are either "no" or a clear statement of it.
Will you open the panel and remove the dead front?
Most of the findings that matter are behind the cover. An inspection that does not include this is a walkthrough.
How many receptacles will you actually test?
"Representative sample" can mean six or sixty. Ungrounded three-prong outlets and reversed polarity only show up where someone tested.
Will the report separate safety hazards from code-current-practice notes?
Otherwise you get a list where a missing arc-fault breaker sits beside a scorched panel bus with equal weight, and no way to budget.
Does the report meet what my insurer or lender specifically asked for?
Some want named forms, some want a licensed electrician's letter. Establish this before, not after.
Will you walk me through the findings on site?
Fifteen minutes with the panel open and someone pointing is worth more than the document, and it is where you find out how confident they really are.
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