Rewiring a house - including the parts nobody quotes
How much wall gets opened, who patches it, whether you can live in the house while it happens, and why most homes that "need rewiring" actually need something smaller.
What is whole house rewire?
A whole house rewire replaces the branch wiring throughout the building - the cables running from the panel to every outlet, switch, light and appliance - along with the boxes, devices and usually the panel itself. It is the most disruptive residential electrical job there is, because the wires are inside finished walls and ceilings. The honest headline: the electrical work is rarely the expensive part. Access and making good is.
Signs you need whole house rewire
- The house still has knob-and-tube or early cloth-covered wiring in service, not just abandoned in the attic
- You have aluminium branch wiring from the mid-1960s to mid-1970s and remediation has already been judged impractical
- Outlets are two-prong throughout, meaning there is no equipment ground anywhere in the branch circuits
- Insulation on cables is visibly cracking, crumbling or falling away when disturbed
- Repeated burning smells, warm outlets or scorch marks in more than one location - a pattern, not a single fault
- An insurer has refused cover, surcharged the policy or set a deadline for the wiring to be replaced
- You are already gutting the house for a renovation, which is the one time the access cost disappears
Seeing something not on this list? Browse electrical problems by symptom →
How whole house rewire actually works
Assessment - and the partial-versus-whole question
A competent electrician opens a sample of boxes, looks in the attic and basement, and establishes what is actually in the walls. Many houses turn out to be mixed: some circuits replaced in the 1980s, some original. The finding that matters is whether the bad wiring is confined to identifiable runs or is genuinely everywhere.
Watch forA whole-house quote produced from a walkthrough and the year the house was built. If nobody has opened boxes and looked in the attic, they are pricing a guess - and the guess is always the bigger job.
The circuit plan, written before anything is opened
A rewire is a chance to redesign, not just replace. Kitchen and laundry circuit requirements have changed substantially, bedrooms now typically need arc-fault protection, and outlet spacing standards are tighter than in any pre-war house. This is also where you decide what you want that you do not have - outdoor circuits, a garage feed, data cabling pulled while the walls are open.
Watch forA like-for-like replacement. Rewiring to the same layout you had spends the disruption budget and leaves you with a 1950s circuit plan in new cable.
Deciding how the cable gets from A to B
This is where the real cost sits. Cables can be fished through existing stud bays from above and below, which is slow and needs limited access holes, or walls can be opened along the runs, which is fast and destructive. Balloon-framed older homes often allow long vertical fishes; homes with fire blocking, plaster and lath, or spray foam frequently do not.
Watch forA quote that does not say which method is assumed. "Minimal drywall damage" is a marketing phrase unless it is accompanied by a specific statement of where holes will be cut.
Opening up - the disruption map
Expect access holes at every outlet and switch, along the tops and bottoms of wall runs, and at ceiling boxes. Plaster and lath does not cut back neatly the way drywall does, and rewiring a plaster house realistically means larger repairs. Furniture moves, floors get covered, and rooms come out of use in sequence rather than all at once.
Watch forWhether patching is included. In most quotes it is not, and drywall repair, plaster repair, texture matching and repainting across a whole house is a five-figure surprise on top of a five-figure job. Get it priced by someone, in writing, before you start.
Rough-in and inspection
New cable is pulled, boxes are set, and everything is left open for a rough-in inspection before anything is closed. In many jurisdictions this inspection is mandatory and covering work before it happens means opening it again.
Watch forAny suggestion of closing walls before rough-in is signed off. It is a hard failure and the cost of undoing it lands on you.
Panel, service and the old wiring
A rewire almost always includes a new panel, and frequently a service upgrade too - doing them separately means paying twice for panel work and coordinating two inspection cycles. Old cable is disconnected at both ends and, where it cannot be pulled out, made permanently dead rather than left live in a wall.
Watch forAbandoned wiring left energised "just in case". It is the thing that hurts the next person who opens that wall, and a rewire is the moment to end it.
Trim-out, final inspection and making good
Devices, plates, fixtures and covers go on, protective devices are tested, the panel directory is written from actual tracing, and the final inspection follows. Then, separately, the building gets repaired: patching, sanding, priming, painting.
Watch forA final walkthrough done before the making-good. Sign off the electrical work and the repair work separately, and hold retention against the second one.
What does whole house rewire cost?
Rewiring a house is priced largely by size and by how hard the cables are to run - a small, accessible, single-storey home sits at the bottom of the range and a large plaster-walled house with finished ceilings at the top. Assume five figures, and assume drywall repair and repainting are extra unless the quote says otherwise.
See the full whole house rewire cost guide - by material, size and region →
If the number is the problem, here are the ways people pay for it →
HomeMatchup does not perform whole house rewire. We match you with licensed local electrical pros for whole house rewire. Free for homeowners — Get matched free · how we verify pros.
When whole house rewire is the wrong call
When saying yes is the wrong move:
- Only part of the house is actually bad. This is the most common overreach. If the knob-and-tube is confined to the upstairs lighting and the rest was redone in the eighties, a targeted replacement of those runs is a fraction of the price and gets you the same insurance outcome.
- The problem is capacity, not wiring condition. Tripping breakers and a shortage of outlets are usually solved by adding circuits and upgrading the panel. Replacing perfectly sound cable does not add capacity - the panel and service do.
- You plan to renovate in the next two or three years. Rewiring finished walls and then opening those same walls for a kitchen or bathroom remodel is paying the access cost twice. Wait and do it during the demolition, when the marginal cost of the wiring is dramatically lower.
- You cannot fund the repair work. A house with new wiring and unpatched walls is worse to live in and worse to sell than a house with old wiring. If the budget only stretches to the electrical, phase the job by area instead of doing all of it badly.
- Two-prong outlets are your only complaint. Where a ground genuinely cannot be run, current code in most jurisdictions permits specific alternatives such as ground-fault protection with the required labelling. That is a legitimate, inspectable solution, not a fudge - ask about it before committing to a rewire.
- You are selling and hoping to recover it. Rewiring rarely returns its cost in sale price. Where the wiring is genuinely unsafe, the choice is between doing it and disclosing it - and disclosing with a couple of contractor quotes in hand is sometimes the better financial outcome.
Types of whole house rewire
| Option | What it means for you |
|---|---|
| Partial rewire | Replacing identified runs rather than every circuit. |
| Knob and tube replacement | When the old wiring is specifically knob-and-tube. |
| Aluminium wiring remediation | Connector-based repair instead of full replacement. |
| Romex and modern cable | What replaces the old wiring, and why. |
What to check when hiring for whole house rewire
- How did you establish that the whole house needs rewiring? The answer should involve opened boxes and an attic. If it involves the year the house was built, get a second opinion before spending five figures.
- Are you fishing the cables or opening the walls, and where exactly will holes be cut? This is the difference between the two quotes you are comparing. Ask for it room by room.
- Is drywall or plaster repair included? Painting? Almost always excluded, and almost always assumed to be included by the homeowner. This single question is worth more than everything else on the list.
- Can we live in the house, and how do you sequence the rooms? A crew that works room by room and restores power nightly is running a different job from one that kills the house for a week. Both are legitimate; you need to know which you bought.
- Is the panel - and the service - included, or a separate job? Doing them separately costs more overall and doubles the inspections. If it is separate, understand why.
- What happens to the old wiring you cannot pull out? It should be disconnected at both ends and made dead. Anything else is a hazard left for whoever opens that wall next.
- How many inspections, and who books them? A rewire normally has at least a rough-in and a final. Both belong to the contractor, and the rough-in gates when walls can be closed.
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Sources
Sources last checked
- National Electrical Code (NFPA 70) overviewNFPARetrieved 2026-08-04Model electrical code most U.S. jurisdictions adopt with local amendments.
- Occupational Employment and Wages — Construction TradesU.S. Bureau of Labor StatisticsRetrieved 2026-08-04Labor cost context for home-services trades nationally.
Sources for figures and claims on this page.
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