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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523A charger that will not start is often a tripped breaker, a protective device doing its job, a cable fault or the car — not a dead wall unit. Here is the triage order, what an electrician actually tests, and when replacement beats repair.
EV charger repair is electrical diagnosis of a home charging station that will not charge, charges intermittently, or faults under load. The useful order is supply and protection first (breaker, disconnect, GFCI/GFEP behaviour), then the cable and connector, then the wall unit, then the vehicle. Many service calls end at a tripped device or a car setting — which is a good outcome if you find it before ordering a replacement charger.
Seeing something not on this list? Browse ev chargers problems by symptom →
Capture the symptoms and any codes before resetting everything
Note lights, app messages, car messages and whether the failure is immediate or after a delay. Then check the breaker and any local disconnect. Random power-cycling without notes erases information the technician needs.
Watch for: A visit where nobody asks what the car displayed. Vehicle-side faults are common and free to check.
Verify supply, grounding and protection devices
Confirm voltage at the unit, that the breaker matches the circuit design, and that protective devices are operating as intended rather than nuisance-tripping from a real ground fault. Shared circuits and undersized feeds show up here.
Watch for: Repeatedly resetting a breaker that trips under charge. Breakers that trip are messages; forcing them is how wiring damage gets worse.
Inspect cable, connector and mounting
Strain relief, crushed cables, water in connectors and damaged latches are high-frequency faults — especially on outdoor units. Some cables are field-replaceable; some are integrated.
Watch for: Tape on a damaged EV cable as a long-term fix. High-current flexible cords are not extension-cord territory.
Test or replace the EVSE electronics
If supply and cable are sound, the wall unit is next — internal faults, failed contactors, control boards, network modules. Manufacturer warranty and certified-repair rules vary; some units are board-swap, some are whole-unit.
Watch for: A quote for a full new install when a still-supported unit needs a parts swap. Ask about warranty and parts availability before you approve a tear-out.
Prove a full charge session before closing the ticket
A reset that "seems fine" is not a repair. A completed session under normal load is. If load management or solar integration is in the system, test with those conditions present.
Watch for: Sign-off on a unit that only works when nothing else in the house is running. That is an incomplete diagnosis.
Diagnostic visits sit at the low end; cable replacements and board-level repairs climb; full EVSE replacement with labour sits higher still. If the circuit itself was never adequate, repair quotes should be compared against a proper Level 2 redesign rather than stacking resets — see the installation head page.
See the full ev charger repair cost guide — by material, size and region →
Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.
Do not open a hardwired EVSE, bypass a protective device, or replace a breaker with a higher amp rating to stop trips. Those trips may be the only thing between a fault and a fire. Also do not use damaged charge cables.
What is your diagnostic fee, and is it credited if I proceed with repair?
Standard electrical service economics — know it before the van rolls.
Do you service my charger brand, or only replace with what you sell?
Brand-agnostic diagnosis matters if the unit is still under warranty.
Will you test supply and protection before condemning the EVSE?
The whole point of this page. Parts-first quotes waste money.
Are cables and boards available, and what is the lead time?
Determines whether you live on public charging for a day or a month.
If replacement is smarter, can you reuse my circuit and permit history?
A like-for-like swap on a sound circuit is much cheaper than a full redesign.
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When replacement or a first-time install is the real need
Connection method and receptacle faults
Weather-related failures and outdoor siting
When capacity — not the unit — is the bottleneck
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