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Fire pits — two completely different products with one name

A wood-burning ring and a gas fire feature share a shape and nothing else. One is a masonry job, the other is a licensed gas appliance. Decide which you want first. We match you with vetted local pros.

In short

What is fire pit installation?

A fire pit is either a wood-burning enclosure — a ring of block or stone around a non-combustible base, usually with a steel liner — or a gas fire feature, which is a burner, a fuel supply and a media bed built into a similar-looking surround. The masonry looks the same from a distance. The gas version is a licensed appliance installation with permits and inspections, and the wood version is governed by local burn and air-quality rules. Choose the fuel before you choose the stone.

Triggers

Signs you need fire pit installation

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The job

How fire pit installation actually works

  1. Choosing the fuel, because everything else depends on it

    Wood burning gives real heat, real flame and real smoke, needs somewhere to store and dispose of fuel and ash, and is subject to local burn rules. Gas lights instantly, produces little smoke, gives less heat for the same visual size, and requires a permitted supply line and an approved burner assembly.

    Watch for: A surround built for wood and later "converted" to gas by dropping a burner in. Gas fire features need specific ventilation and specific non-combustible construction around the burner, and an improvised conversion is how gas accumulates in an enclosure.

  2. Checking what is actually allowed where you live

    Open burning is regulated, and the rules differ by municipality, by air-quality district and by season. Many places set required separations from structures, property lines and overhanging vegetation. HOAs frequently have their own restrictions, sometimes banning wood entirely.

    Watch for: Anyone quoting a national setback distance. There is no such number that is reliable everywhere — it varies by jurisdiction and by whether the pit is permanent or portable. Ask your fire department or building department directly, and check the HOA separately.

  3. Siting for smoke, heat, wind and the seating around it

    Smoke goes where the wind takes it, which on most properties means predictably toward one neighbour or one window. Overhead is just as important — tree canopy, a pergola, an eave or a covered patio above a wood fire is a serious problem. The seating radius also has to fit around it without pushing people into planting or off the paving.

    Watch for: A fire pit placed in the geometric centre of a patio without anyone checking the seating circle actually fits on the paving, or checking what is directly overhead.

  4. Base preparation and drainage under the pit

    The pit sits on a compacted base like any other hardscape element, and it needs to drain — a wood-burning pit that holds water becomes a bowl of wet ash, and trapped water in a masonry structure in a freezing climate is how it cracks apart.

    Watch for: A sealed, undrained base. It is invisible and it is the most common reason a well-built-looking fire pit fails within a few winters.

  5. Building the enclosure with materials rated for fire contact

    The material in direct contact with fire is not the same as the material on the outside. Wood-burning pits normally use a firebrick or steel liner inside the decorative block or stone, because ordinary concrete units and many natural stones are not intended for sustained direct heat.

    Watch for: Retaining wall block or ordinary paving stone used as the inner face of a wood-burning pit, and any stone that may hold moisture placed where it gets hot. Trapped moisture in stone that is heated rapidly can cause it to crack or spall violently.

  6. Gas supply, burner and controls — licensed work

    For a gas feature, a licensed gas fitter runs and sizes the supply, and the burner assembly, ignition and shut-off are installed to the manufacturer's instructions. The enclosure needs the ventilation openings that assembly requires.

    Watch for: An enclosure sealed up for a neat appearance. Gas fire feature enclosures are ventilated so that unburned gas cannot collect in them, and closing the vents is not a cosmetic decision.

  7. Media, finishing and the surrounding surface

    Gas features are finished with a media bed suited to the burner — lava rock, fire glass or approved logs. The surrounding paving and any coping is detailed so it does not sit in the heat path, and the seating area is set out.

    Watch for: Ordinary landscape gravel or river rock used as gas fire media, or thrown into a wood pit. Stone that has absorbed water can fracture explosively when heated. Use only media the burner manufacturer specifies.

  8. Commissioning, handover and the safety conversation

    A gas feature should be lit, tested and demonstrated with the shut-off location shown to you, and you should get the permit sign-off. For wood, you should leave knowing how to extinguish and how to deal with ash safely.

    Watch for: No demonstrated shut-off. You need to know where and how to turn the gas off without thinking about it, and so does anyone else who uses the yard.

Money

What does fire pit installation cost?

Fire pit pricing splits by fuel. A masonry wood-burning pit is largely a materials-and-labour question. A gas feature adds a burner assembly, controls and a permitted supply line whose cost depends mostly on how far the gas has to travel — often the largest single item on the quote.

See the full fire pit installation cost guide — by material, size and region →

Fire feature and hardscaping calculators → Scope the feature and the seating area before comparing quotes.

Straight answer

When fire pit installation is the wrong call

Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.

Your options

Types of fire pit installation

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Straight answer

Can I do this myself?

The dividing line is the fuel. Building a wood-burning ring is within reach of a competent DIYer. Anything involving a gas supply is licensed, permitted work — an improvised gas fire pit in a sealed masonry enclosure is one of the more dangerous things you can build in a backyard.

Reasonable to DIY

  • A dry-laid wood-burning ring on a prepared, drained base, using a proper steel or firebrick liner and materials rated for fire contact
  • Setting a manufactured fire pit kit on a compacted base, following the kit instructions
  • Preparing the base and the surrounding paving for a feature someone else will install
  • Replacing a burnt-out steel liner in an existing wood pit
  • Seasonal cleaning, ash removal and covering

Call a licensed pro

  • Every part of a gas installation — supply line, sizing, burner, ignition, shut-off and the ventilation of the enclosure
  • Any fire feature built into a covered or partially enclosed structure
  • Conversions between wood and gas, which are a rebuild rather than a swap
  • Fire features integrated into a seat wall or a patio structure, where the construction has to be non-combustible throughout
  • Anything where local setback or burn rules are unclear — get it confirmed by the authority rather than guessed
Before you sign

What to check when hiring for fire pit installation

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Local pros

Fire Pit Installation near you

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Related work

Often done at the same time

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FAQ

Fire Pit Installation — questions people ask

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For a simple wood-burning pit, often not — but open burning itself is regulated, and permanent fire features are treated differently from portable ones in many places. For a gas fire pit the answer is usually yes, because the gas line and its connection are permitted, inspected work. Rules also come from more than one place: the building department, the fire department or air-quality district, and your HOA can each impose their own restrictions. Check all of them for your address rather than relying on a general answer.
There is a required separation in most jurisdictions and we are deliberately not publishing a number, because it varies by locality, by whether the pit is permanent or portable, and by fuel. What is universal is the principle: clearance from structures, from property lines, from fences and from anything overhead including tree canopy and pergolas. Your fire department will give you the actual figure for your address, and it is a short call.
Generally no, and it is worth setting expectations before you spend. Gas fire features are designed around the appearance of flame, and for a given visual size they usually produce noticeably less radiant heat than a wood fire. What they give you instead is instant ignition, no smoke, no ash, no fuel storage, and a control you can turn off when you go inside. If warmth in genuinely cold weather is the priority, that is a point in favour of wood or of a dedicated heating appliance.
Not by simply dropping a burner into it. A gas fire feature enclosure has requirements a wood pit does not — specified ventilation so unburned gas cannot collect, non-combustible construction around the burner, an accessible shut-off, and installation to the burner manufacturer's instructions by someone licensed to run the gas. In practice conversion usually means rebuilding the interior of the feature. Treat it as a new installation and price it that way.
Seasoned, untreated firewood is the answer for a wood pit. Treated, painted or pressure-treated lumber releases genuinely harmful compounds when burned, and construction debris and rubbish are prohibited in most jurisdictions as well as being unpleasant for everyone nearby. Never add accelerants. And do not put ordinary landscape or river rock inside the pit — stone that has absorbed water can crack sharply when it heats.
This is mostly a design question rather than a maintenance one. A properly built pit contains the fire within a liner and keeps the heat off the surrounding surface, and coping around the top edge protects the material immediately adjacent. Damage usually shows up where a portable fire bowl has been used directly on paving, or where a pit was built without a liner. If you are seeing scorching or spalling around an existing pit, that is a signal about how it was built rather than about how you are using it.

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