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Replacing a skylight you already have

The opening exists, so the decisions are different: whether the unit is genuinely finished, whether the new one has to match the curb, and why the age of your roof matters more than the age of the skylight.

In short

What is skylight replacement?

Replacing a skylight means removing the old unit and its flashing, checking and repairing the deck and curb underneath, setting a new unit sized to the opening you already have, and reflashing it into the surrounding roof covering. The opening usually stays; the flashing always gets replaced. The decision that matters most is not the skylight's age — it is how many years your roof has left, because doing both together costs far less than doing them apart.

Triggers

Signs you need skylight replacement

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The job

How skylight replacement actually works

  1. Diagnose before quoting — is it the unit, or is it the flashing?

    A leak at a skylight is more often a flashing or a sealant failure than a unit failure. A competent assessment separates the two: failed glazing seals show as moisture between panes or a permanent film that will not clean off; failed flashing shows as staining at the head or the sides that tracks with rain. Replacing a sound unit because the flashing leaked is a common and expensive misdiagnosis.

    Watch for: A quote for a new unit produced without anyone going onto the roof or into the attic. If nobody has looked at the flashing and the deck around the curb, the diagnosis is a guess with a product attached.

  2. Measure the existing opening and decide match-or-change

    Replacements are sized to the opening you have. Deck-mounted units are sized to the rough opening in the deck; curb-mounted units are sized to the outside of the existing curb, and a unit that is nominally the same size from a different maker frequently is not. Changing size is possible but converts the job into partial reframing, with headers and interior finishing following.

    Watch for: A size taken from the visible interior trim rather than from the actual rough opening or curb. It is the single most common cause of a replacement unit arriving that does not fit, and it costs a return trip and an open roof overnight.

  3. Strip back the covering and remove the old unit

    The roof covering is lifted back far enough around the opening to get the old flashing out cleanly — the sides and, in particular, the head, where the flashing runs up under courses that have to be freed rather than cut. The old unit is lifted out and the opening covered if the job runs over a day.

    Watch for: Old flashing cut off flush and left in place under the covering. It has to come out. Layered flashing traps water between the old and new detail and produces a leak nobody can find.

  4. Inspect and repair the deck, the curb and the framing

    This is the part you cannot see from a quote and the part that generates change orders. Years of a slow leak rot the deck edge at the head of the opening and the base of a wooden curb. Both are repaired before anything new goes on, and on an older curb-mounted unit the curb is often rebuilt.

    Watch for: A price with no allowance and no conversation about what happens if there is rot. Ask for a stated hourly or unit rate for deck and curb repair up front, so the discovery is priced rather than negotiated on the day.

  5. Set the new unit and install a complete new flashing kit

    The new unit goes in with the flashing kit made for that model and for your roof covering. This kit is always new — flashing is not reused, even where it looks serviceable, because it has been formed to the old unit and it has done its service life.

    Watch for: Reused step flashing, or a mismatched kit because "the sizes are close". Manufacturers tie the unit warranty to their own kit correctly installed, so a saved hundred dollars here typically forfeits the warranty on the unit you just bought.

  6. Reinstate the covering and make good inside

    The roof covering is laid back over the flashing in the correct order, and inside, the shaft and trim are repaired where the old unit had been leaking. Where there was a long-running leak, the shaft insulation is usually wet and gets replaced rather than dried in place.

    Watch for: Wet insulation left in a shaft and simply covered over with new drywall. It will not dry inside a sealed cavity, and the smell and the staining come back within a season.

Money

What does skylight replacement cost?

A like-for-like replacement into a sound existing opening is typically a one-day job plus the unit, and costs well below a new installation because there is no framing or shaft work. Deck or curb rot, size changes and low-slope roofs add to it. See the skylight cost guide for ranges.

See the full skylight replacement cost guide — by material, size and region →

Straight answer

When skylight replacement is the wrong call

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Your options

Types of skylight replacement

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Before you sign

What to check when hiring for skylight replacement

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Local pros

Skylight Replacement near you

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Related work

Often done at the same time

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FAQ

Skylight Replacement — questions people ask

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Moisture or permanent haze between the panes means the sealed glazing unit has failed, and that is a replacement — it cannot be repaired in place. Staining at the head or sides that appears with rain and dries afterwards points at the flashing, which can usually be redone with the unit staying put. If the frame flexes, an acrylic dome has crazed, or a venting mechanism has failed with no parts available, replacement is the practical answer.
Often, but do not assume the sizes interchange. Curb-mounted units are sized to the outside of the curb and nominally identical sizes between manufacturers frequently differ by enough to matter, while deck-mounted units are sized to the rough opening in the deck. Have the actual opening measured before anything is ordered, and be ready for minor curb modification as part of the job.
If they are old, yes — the access, staging and covering work are shared, so the marginal cost is much lower than doing it separately, and a skylight left in place will eventually mean opening a new roof. If they are relatively young and sound, replacing the flashing kit and reseating them is the sensible middle path, because the flashing has a shorter life than the unit and it is the flashing that leaks.
A like-for-like swap into a sound opening is commonly a single day per unit. It extends when the deck or curb has rotted, when the covering is tile or metal and has to be carefully lifted and reinstated, when the size changes, or when interior repair is needed after a long-running leak — drywall and paint add days that are mostly drying time.
On its own, rarely the strongest case. An old single-glazed or uncoated unit is genuinely a weak point in the ceiling plane and a modern one is much better, but the comfort improvement — less winter draught and radiant chill, less summer heat gain — is usually the honest reason rather than a calculable payback. Treat improved comfort as the benefit and any energy saving as a bonus.
It varies, and it often turns on whether the opening changes. Many jurisdictions treat a like-for-like replacement into an existing opening more lightly than a new opening, while any change in size brings the structural framing back into scope. Some also apply energy requirements to the replacement glazing. Check with your building department and make the responsibility explicit in the contract.

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