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Full services directory How it worksFor prosAbout Get matched Call (866) 582-8523A waterproof plank is genuinely waterproof. The floor it becomes is not — water goes through the seams, sits on the subfloor, and stays there. That distinction is the whole job.
Luxury vinyl plank installation means laying rigid or flexible vinyl planks over a prepared subfloor, either floating with click-together edges or glued directly down. The material itself does not absorb water, which is why it dominates kitchens, basements and rental turnovers. The limit is the assembly: water that reaches the seams passes through to whatever is underneath, and a waterproof plank over a non-waterproof subfloor still fails — just out of sight.
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Subfloor flatness check — the step this material is fussiest about
Manufacturers publish a flatness tolerance, usually expressed as a maximum deviation over a given span. The installer checks with a long straightedge across the room in several directions and marks anything out of tolerance.
Watch for: Nobody putting a straightedge on the floor. Rigid-core plank does not conform to a dip — it bridges it, and the click joints over that void flex, click audibly underfoot, and eventually separate. Almost every "my LVP is popping apart" complaint is a flatness problem.
Moisture testing on slabs
Concrete gets a moisture test before anything is glued or floated over it. Vinyl does not absorb the moisture, but it does trap it, and trapped moisture under a glued floor destroys the adhesive bond and can raise pH problems at the slab surface.
Watch for: A glue-down quote over an untested slab. Adhesive failure is invisible for months and then the whole floor is loose at once.
Levelling and patching
Out-of-tolerance areas get ground down or filled with a cementitious patch or self-levelling compound, which then has to cure and be checked again before the floor goes down.
Watch for: Levelling compound poured and planks laid the same afternoon. It has a cure time, and installing over a green pour traps moisture directly under the floor.
Choosing floating or glue-down
Floating is faster, forgiving of minor slab moisture, and removable — the default for residential. Glue-down is more stable underfoot, better over large uninterrupted areas and in rooms with heavy rolling loads or wide temperature swings.
Watch for: A floating floor specified for a very large open span or a sunroom with big temperature swings. Floating floors need room to move and a break at some point; glue-down avoids the question entirely.
Underlayment, or not
Many rigid-core planks ship with an attached pad and explicitly forbid adding another underneath. Where a separate underlayment is used it is chosen for the substrate, not for comfort.
Watch for: A second underlayment added under a pad-attached plank "for softness". It over-compresses, the joints work, and it voids most manufacturer warranties.
Layout, expansion gaps and installation
The installer plans the layout so the last row is not a sliver, staggers end joints so they never line up, and leaves the specified expansion gap at every wall, pipe, jamb and fixed obstruction.
Watch for: The gap closed at a kitchen island, a hearth, or under cabinet toe-kicks. Floating vinyl expands with temperature more than most people expect, and one pinned edge produces a raised ridge somewhere in the middle of the room.
Transitions, silicone and finishing
Perimeter gaps are covered with base or shoe. In genuinely wet rooms the perimeter and any fixture penetration is sealed so surface water cannot get under the floor rather than merely off it.
Watch for: A bathroom or laundry installed with no perimeter seal, sold as waterproof. The plank is waterproof; the open gap around it is a drain into your subfloor.
LVP sits in the mid range per square foot installed, usually below hardwood and tile and above laminate and carpet. Material grade — mainly wear-layer thickness and core type — moves the price more than labour does, and subfloor levelling is the common add. See the Cost Guide.
See the full luxury vinyl plank installation cost guide — by material, size and region →
Everyone else ranking for this is paid when you say yes. Here's when you shouldn't.
Rigid core types, wear layers and what the acronyms actually mean.
Hardwood vs LVP, laminate vs LVP, tile vs LVP, SPC vs WPC.
How waterproof product took over the category, and what the label covers.
When to add underlayment, when adding it voids the warranty, and how edges are finished.
What flatness tolerance does this product specify, and how will you verify mine?
The defining question for this material. The answer should include a number and a straightedge.
Floating or glue-down for my rooms, and why?
There is a right answer per room. An installer who applies one method everywhere is not thinking about your house.
Does this plank have an attached pad, and are you adding underlayment?
Adding a pad under a pad-attached plank is a common, warranty-voiding mistake.
What expansion gap are you leaving, and at which obstructions?
Walls are obvious. Islands, jambs, hearths and toe-kicks are where it gets missed.
How thick is the wear layer on the product you are quoting?
It is the number that predicts service life.
In wet rooms, how are you sealing the perimeter?
The difference between a waterproof plank and a floor that keeps water off the subfloor.
Is levelling included, or is it an allowance?
On this material it is not an optional extra. Get it scoped and priced up front, not discovered mid-job.
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